At the heart of this masterpiece is a vision that marries mechanics with artistry, a philosophy eloquently shared by Lionel Favre, Product Design Director at Jaeger-LeCoultre, during an exclusive interview.
“We try to put the design at the beginning of the development because we are lucky to have a Manufacture,” he explains. That means that, unlike many other brands, they don’t need to purchase movements. They make their own, with in-house facilities that enable unparalleled creative collaboration. “It’s very important to think of the watch as a whole, and not just take an aesthetic approach,” he continues. This holistic philosophy ensures that every element, from the disposition of functions to the shape of bridges, aligns with mechanical precision and aesthetic harmony.
The Duometre collection, extended with a Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, Duometre Chronograph Moon and reinterpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase), epitomises this synergy. From the intricate decoration techniques like Anglage and Perlage to the subtle interplay of light and texture, every detail is a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s craftsmanship. “Instead of having a stamp making a piece, then a watchmaker putting these pieces in a watch, we have a stamp to make the piece but after that, they break the angles and polish it with bois de Gentianne (boxwood),” he says. The wood, sourced locally in the Vallée de Joux and baked to the perfect softness to obtain pâte diamantine, is used for Anglage (bevelling) and to polish components with a precision comparable to jewellery-making.
— Duometre Quantieme Lunaire
Favre’s words paint a vivid picture of the Duometre’s design ethos: a delicate balance of tradition and modernity. And the colour combinations, rooted in historical watchmaking, reflect Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to heritage. “It’s always a complex balance between traditional and modernity,” he says. The dial and case designs incorporate tone-on-tone effects, achieved, for example, through shades of grey and copper in the Duometre Chronograph Moon, that lend it a subtle yet striking aesthetic. “We find this tone-on-tone on our product,” he adds, emphasising the Maison’s pursuit of understated elegance.
One of the collection’s design features is the continuity between glass, bezel and dial. He describes this as a “fluidity” that breaks from traditional watch design, where the dial often sits recessed below the bezel. “It was important to give this fluidity,” he says, underscoring Jaeger-LeCoultre’s meticulous attention to detail.
— Duometre Chronograph Moon
Favre’s passion for the craft extends beyond technical prowess; it’s about the human element. “Some people have certain skills, traditional skills. A designer can infuse this complexity and try to show the craftsman’s complexity in his design.” The result is timepieces with a “strong perceived value” and a compelling story.
As a designer, he gets how light interacts with surfaces. “In watchmaking, it’s important to play with light, understanding how it reflects on polished and satin surfaces.” This interplay of light is integral to the Duometre’s design, enhancing its visual appeal while maintaining impeccable proportions. The rounded, edge-free silhouette, inspired by the Savonette pocket watch, which was at the time named this way because its lines were similar to a savonette (soap bar), invites a tactile connection.
In an era of oversized watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre remains steadfast in its commitment to classic proportions. “I think there is a huge comeback to a reasonable size, and I like it,” he says. For men, sizes like 38mm and 39mm strike the perfect balance between elegance and practicality. However, for the complex Duometre models, achieving both readability and a refined size requires careful engineering. “If you reduce the size, you augment the thickness,” he explains. Every decision is carefully considered.
— Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
When asked to describe Jaeger-LeCoultre in three words, Favre chose “ingenious, subtle, and Reverso,” referencing the brand’s iconic model. His connection to watches is deeply rooted in family history. He recalls a simple watch gifted by his grandfather, a watchmaker in a village in central France. “He explained to me the mechanics when I was young,” he recalls, attributing his passion for horology to those formative experiences.
His reflection on the evolving role of watches offers a poignant conclusion. “In the past, watches were tools. Today, they are linked to art.” This shift elevates timepieces like the Duometre from functional objects to expressions of artistry and heritage, a transformation that Jaeger-LeCoultre has embraced with unparalleled mastery.
The Duometre novelties exemplify the Maison’s dedication to innovation and tradition, offering collectors a watch and a piece of horological art that celebrates the beauty of mechanics and the creativity of human craftsmanship. The Duometre concept revealed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2007 features the Duometre mechanism, where two independent mechanisms achieve unmatched precision while sharing one regulating organ. One wing handles the watch’s timekeeping, while the other powers complications. This innovative approach – proving that you can add complications to a watch movement and maintain accurate timekeeping – blends technical mastery with the Maison’s commitment to aesthetic elegance. “Watchmaking is a lot of details,” says Favre. “But in the end, it’s very simple. Pure.”
