A dazzling display of rare Cartier pieces is currently showcased at London’s V&A Museum – the first exhibition of its kind in 30 years. British architect and artist Asif Khan MBE was given the task of designing the exhibition, featuring over 350 pieces. His intention was to see “Cartier’s pieces suspended in light, time and sound, allowing history to breathe and the future to linger.”
The result: a glittering tribute to Cartier’s legacy of art, design, and craftsmanship. Descending the stairs into the stylish Sainsbury Gallery, the light quickly fades as the darkened interior places all focus on the prized jewels, allowing them to take centre stage.
In the early 1900s, Cartier patriarch Louis-François’ three grandsons began enhancing the maison’s profile, helping to globalise it by diversifying its elite clientele. Decorative art books and antiques were sourced from abroad, serving as inspiration for Cartier’s designers. The exhibition largely takes visitors on a global journey, offering insight into a century of design. From Japan, Egypt, India and beyond, the regional displays bear witness to Cartier’s continual reinvention and highlight why it has earned the status of the most famous jewellery house in the world.
Notable pieces include the Williamson Diamond brooch commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, featuring the rare 23.6 carat pink Williamson diamond, the Scroll Tiara worn by both Elizabeth II and Rihanna, Grace Kelly’s engagement ring (1956), and the Manchester Tiara from the V&A collection.
A personal favourite was the collection of panther jewels – one of Cartier’s most recognisable symbols, thanks to Louis Cartier’s fascination with the creatures. He regarded them as symbols of grace, power and beauty – elements effortlessly captured in the collection, including a bracelet of pavé diamonds speckled with onyx.
A selection of Cartier timepieces follows (including the iconic Crash wristwatch) and then a ‘Cartier in media’ screen, featuring a carousel of vignettes from film, further illustrating how the creative breadth of the Cartier legacy has played a significant role in, and has equally been shaped by, cinema, music, and fashion. The exhibition serves as a firm reminder that no other jewellery house can boast such an enviable client list of royalty and aristocracy, explaining why Cartier has earned the moniker ‘jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’.
While you may not come away with a piece of jewellery from the catalogue, the official guidebook acts as both a companion to the exhibition and a source of information. The books, along with a range of related paraphernalia, are available at the extensive store at the end of the tour. The London exhibition runs from the 12th of April until the 16th of November this year. Weekday visits cost £27 and £29 on the weekend and must be booked in advance. Allow yourself two hours for the display, and once finished, the Museum’s grand café offers a place to rest your feet before continuing to explore the V&A’s other displays.
