For decades, jewellery marketing has largely focused on women. Today, however, South African jewellers are seeing a growing number of men commissioning pieces for themselves – not as status symbols, but as personal expressions of identity, heritage, and family.
That shift is evident in the experiences of two entrepreneurs selected for the 2025 De Beers Enterprise Development Project for Diamond Beneficiators: Axolisiwe Mbontsi, founder of Johannesburg-based Axel Diamond and a graduate of the Cape Peninsula University of Technology, where he studied Jewellery Design and Manufacturing; and Johannes Matthews, founder of Free State-based Shine Jewellery & Accessories.
Both businesses represent a new generation of local manufacturers helping to add value to South Africa’s diamond industry through local design, craftsmanship, and production.
For Johannes, a qualified goldsmith, designer, and manufacturer, the modern male client is increasingly drawn to understated pieces with personal significance. “We are seeing men become comfortable with minimalist jewellery,” he explains. Rather than heavy chains or oversized bracelets, many clients are commissioning slim cuffs, fine bracelets, and personalised cufflinks engraved with their names, surnames, or their children’s names. Small diamonds and birthstones are often incorporated into the design, creating pieces that carry emotional value as well as aesthetic appeal.
Axolisiwe sees a similar trend but says client preferences vary widely depending on lifestyle and profession. Entertainers may gravitate towards diamond-set pendants and statement pieces, while many married men prefer practical jewellery they can wear every day. “What I’ve found is that men love meaning in what they buy,” says Axolisiwe. “If a piece has significance, they buy into that meaning.”
The Meaning Behind the Design
One recent commission featured a client’s clan name worked into the design, turning the piece into a tribute to family heritage. It is this connection to identity and personal history that is fuelling demand for bespoke jewellery, particularly among clients looking for something that cannot be found in a display case.
Both jewellers guide clients through a detailed design process before a piece reaches the workshop. Digital renderings allow every element to be reviewed and refined, with many commissions evolving through multiple rounds of conversation before the final design is approved.
Their inclusion in the De Beers development programme reflects more than design talent. Selection was based on business growth, compliance, sustainability, and manufacturing capability. Axolisiwe notes that when he first applied several years ago, his business did not qualify. Since then, Axel Diamond has grown from a sole operation to a company employing 10 people. Shine Jewellery & Accessories currently employs four people.
For both entrepreneurs, the future of South African jewellery lies in storytelling. While international luxury houses may draw on centuries of European heritage, local jewellers have an opportunity to create something equally distinctive.
“We are selling South African stories through our jewellery,” says Axolisiwe. “That’s what makes us different.”
