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CARTIER EMBARKS UPON A NEW JOURNEY OF DESIGN AND DISCOVERY WITH ITS HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTION

By Ingrid Wood

Le Voyage Recommencé is a journey to the heart of Cartier creation and signifies a new chapter in the story of this maison’s jewellery story.

Le Voyage Recommencé launches with over 80 new pieces at the Villa Reale di Marlia in Florence, Italy to global press and is a reminder how the Cartier craftsmen and designers approach each new collection with curiosity and their ongoing quest for beauty and innovation.

Villa Reale di Marlia was initially built as a fortress in 1670 and over the centuries, the late-Renaissance palazzo attracted royalty and VIPs. After a complete renovation, it has reopened its doors for the presentation of Cartier’s Le Voyage Recommencé.

The thread throughout this year’s Cartier collection is light and the structures of light, in recognition of the purity of lines and balance of shapes that play a key role at the maison, as well as how the design allows the stones to express their brilliance.

“The designers and jewelers take an unprecedented look at the creative fields that have been emblematic of Cartier for over a century,” says Pierre Rainero, Image, Style and Heritage Director at Cartier. “Geometry, abstraction, volumes and architectures, colour palettes, inspiration from nature and the world’s great cultures.”

The Sama Necklace, with its 19.27-carat Ceylon sapphire, has a series of curves to produce the sensation of motion.

The dramatic Ondule ring has a 0.92-carat grey-violet diamond at the centre, surrounded by half-moon diamonds, which form a ‘halo’ around the hero.

The 4.02-carat diamond in the Claustra necklace is surrounded by a set of shield diamonds, alternating with onyx. The necklace can be separated in two, but the parts hold and fit together when worn.

In 1914, Louis Cartier was inspired by the panther’s coat, using it to decorate a platinum, diamond and onyx watch. By 1933 when  Jeanne Toussaint was appointed Creative Director, it was iconic. The panther takes centre stage again in the Panthère Givrée necklace, with its almond-shaped emerald eyes and onyx spotted coat.

The blue and green peacock motif – in this case emeralds from Zambia and turquoise – has become a Cartier signature. The Girih necklace is an “interplay of lines, motifs and symmetry”. In keeping with Cartier’s tradition of transformable pieces, the central pendant can be detached and worn as a brooch.

In addition to the above, a collection consisting of two sets of jewellery has been created from Voyage Recommencé. The Unda necklace features 67 emerald cabochons (shaped and polished gems) of varying sizes, and diamonds. The Voltea set uses one of the Maison’s classic colour combinations – red and black – and half-moons of diamond pavé, coral beads and an onyx frame, studded with a central diamond.

“This collection is a great opportunity to delve into the essential themes of Cartier style. To explore the in greater depth, take a fresh look at them…approaching them with a contemporary eye to go further,” said Jacqueline Karachi, Director of High Jewellery Creation at Cartier.

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november 2024

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