Breitling’s “Say Hello to Yellow” Sets the Tone for 140 Years of Firsts

Breitling: 140 Years in 140 Stories, a book revealing “hidden treasures from Breitling’s past,” stands out on my bookshelf for its bright yellow cover. It reminds me of a 2024 travel highlight that took me from South Africa to Switzerland to join the celebrations of an esteemed company grounded in “casual, inclusive and sustainable luxury with purpose and a touch of fun”. We’ll never know which elements of the colour founder Willy Breitling cleaved to – warmth, optimism, energy, joy, creativity or enlightenment – but he loved it enough to launch it as the brand’s corporate colour in 1957 when print advertising was primarily black and white. Yellow would be hard to miss. Just before the turn of the century, Breitling’s then-head of marketing, Ben Balmer, reinforced the concept:

“We all need to have the same blood in our veins. Yellow blood.”

We couldn’t miss the yellow signage in the pedestrian-only Rennweg 14-16 before the Breitling Then & Now pop-up museum’s official opening in Zurich in August. Just near the Breitling boutique on Bahnhofstrasse 70, the museum is open to the public and free of charge, intended for a limited time only. But that could all change after seeing the result of the team’s efforts, led by Breitling’s Head of Heritage Gianfranco Gentile and Heritage Manager Jennifer Bochud, who spent nine months sourcing everything required for the exhibits. Visitors’ response has been overwhelming, not the least of which was that of Gregory Breitling, Willy’s son, who attended the opening and later book launch in Geneva, coinciding with the opening of Geneva Watch Days. Then, I caught up with Gianfranco and Fred Mandelbaum, Breitling’s collector-turned-consultant, who shared insights on the significance of the brand’s journey, marked not only by exceptional watches but also by deep family roots, reinvention, and meaningful connections.

At the heart of the “140 Years of Firsts” milestone are two central pillars: a new range of watches blending heritage with modernity and the recently launched Breitling pop-up museum, a tribute to the company’s achievements and the people behind the brand. Through their words, the story of Breitling’s evolution unfolds, balancing design mastery with unwavering respect for the legacy of Gregory, the descendant of the brand’s founders.

Heritage meets innovation

When asked about his favourite piece among Breitling’s latest launches featuring the Caliber B19, Breitling’s first perpetual calendar chronograph movement, Fred admits, “I keep going back and forth… but in the end, I always return to the Navitimer.”

With a design rooted in the 1940s, this new Navitimer carries the spirit of Breitling’s iconic series while embodying timeless appeal. “These are watches you can hand down to your children, even your grandchildren,” he explains, emphasising the enduring value of these designs. The Navitimer, with its golden dial and rich heritage, stands out for being “closest to our heritage.”

On the other hand, Fred characterises the Chronomat as “assertive” and “exuberant,” offering a bolder, more luxurious take on the brand’s aesthetics. Beyond aesthetics, these new releases reflect the technical prowess of Breitling’s watchmaking. Designing these models began in 2022, with particular emphasis on the movement. “A perpetual calendar chronograph with automatic movement is no small feat,” says Fred. “It is among the most intricate complications you can create.”

— Breitling Manufacture Caliber B19

Developing such a watch isn’t just about innovation but reliability. “Not every watchmaker can assemble or service these movements,” he admits, underscoring the challenges of maintaining high standards across decades – and continents. “You have to ensure that the movement can be serviced worldwide and repaired for generations.”

Built on stories and connections

Breitling’s newly opened pop-up museum complements these timepieces by celebrating the company’s heritage through objects, stories and connections that breathe life into them. Offering visitors a journey through 140 years of innovation and craftsmanship, the museum immerses guests in the narratives of the brand’s evolution and the individuals who shaped it rather than focusing purely on the watches as artefacts.

“It’s not just about products,” explains Gianfranco, the creative director behind the museum concept. “It’s also about people – those who designed, built, and wore these watches. Each piece tells a story, not only of technical achievement but of personal moments.” This human-centric approach positions the museum as a living space where history is experienced interactively rather than passively observed.

Every exhibit reflects Breitling’s relentless pursuit of precision and purpose, from early pocket watches crafted in the late 19th century to aviation instruments that guided pilots through the golden age of flight. Gianfranco reiterates the goal to create an experience where “visitors feel part of an ongoing story.” As visitors explore, they encounter installations that allow them to engage with the mechanics of iconic movements, trace the evolution of aviation tools, and learn about collaborations with astronauts and sports legends.

“Our museum is designed as much for collectors as it is for newcomers to the brand,” he continues. “It’s about building connections between Breitling’s past, present, and future, but also between people who appreciate what the brand represents.” This inclusive approach reflects Breitling’s philosophy of accessibility, which fosters a sense of community among enthusiasts and first-timers alike.

A living museum for a dynamic legacy

The museum’s exhibits also reflect Breitling’s ability to evolve. The brand’s commitment to sustainability is present in the materials used to construct the museum space and in interactive displays showcasing Breitling’s efforts toward environmental responsibility. “We’re not just a watch company,” says Gianfranco.

“We’re a brand that understands the importance of heritage, but we also believe in creating a future worth living for.”

The museum experience is dynamic, incorporating thematic talks and partnerships with artists, athletes, and explorers. These collaborations highlight Breitling’s diverse ambassadors, from surfers to pilots, further emphasising the brand’s neo-luxury approach. “This isn’t a static museum,” Fred adds. “It’s a space that will evolve, just as Breitling does. We’re constantly reinventing ourselves [not forgetting our roots], but the essence of Breitling – the spirit of innovation, adventure, and connection – remains the same.”

The combination of groundbreaking timepieces and the newly launched museum marks a significant chapter in Breitling’s story. As visitors explore the exhibitions or strap on one of the new watches, they aren’t just engaging with products – they’re becoming part of a journey that spans generations. “Our legacy isn’t just in the past,” reflects Gianfranco. “It’s in every moment we create moving forward.”