One of the highlights of attending Watches and Wonders Geneva each year is the commensurate invitation to escape the confines of the exhibition space and head to the Patek Philippe salons at 41, rue du Rhône to view the annual Rare Handcrafts exhibition. Sumptuous and calming, this historic environment has been in the hands of the firm since 1853, renovated and expanded over time as its spiritual home of watchmaking. While precious examples of the Patek Philippe collection are always on display on the ground floor, the fourth floor is reserved for this exhibition of pocket watches, wristwatches and table clocks, displaying the artistic skills that make them so collectable. These are some of my favourites.
992/160G-001
This white gold pocket watch draws inspiration from an 18th-century painting of Venice by Canaletto (1697–1768), with the iconic Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal taking centre stage.
The engraver carved the canal’s wavelets by hand before applying translucent blue enamel. The palaces and sky are rendered in intricate miniature painting on enamel, using 12 colours, including six specially blended shades. Multiple layers of transparent flux enamel enhance the scene’s luminosity and protect the artwork, which underwent 17 kiln firings at temperatures between 800°C and 830°C. The bridge and gondolas were hand-engraved.
Architectural motifs in fine line engraving decorate the case back, bezel, and bow. The dial features a hand-engraved tapestry pattern beneath translucent enamel, with applied white gold Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. A 0.29ct topaz cabochon graces the crown.
The watch is presented with a white gold stand echoing Venetian loggias, adorned with engraved coiled motifs and resting on an oval base of silvered obsidian. A white gold chain with a hand-sculpted, engraved Venetian mask completes the ensemble.
It is powered by the manually wound calibre 17’” LEP PS movement and has a small seconds display.
20187M-001
The “Patek Waltz,” a musical piece composed in 1907 for Patek Philippe’s loyal Brazilian retailer, Gondolo & Labouriau, inspired this one-of-a-kind creation in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel. The melody was played at festive gatherings of the exclusive “Patek clubs.”
Art Nouveau motifs are rendered using approximately 24.29 metres (around 49.96 grams) of gold wire and a soft palette of 18 enamel colours, mainly translucent, with touches of semi-opaque and opaque. Silver leaf, applied in the paillonné enamel technique, enhances the glow beneath the translucent layers. Further refinement comes from miniature enamel painting in five colours. Each enamelled plate underwent 12 firings at approximately 770°C.
The hour circle features black transfer-printed Roman numerals and gilded poire-style hands, while the dial centre is decorated with a sunburst pattern beneath translucent brown enamel.
A hand-engraved inscription at the base reads “Relojoaria Gondolo – Rio de Janeiro,” paying tribute to the original retailer. The frame’s pillars are detailed with a cable motif.
5077/100R-071
Symbolising light and enlightenment in many legends, a black swan and a white swan face one another in these poetic creations – two limited editions of 10 pieces each, crafted in white or rose gold, with dials in wood marquetry.
Each portrait, distinguished by the birds’ expressive gaze, comprises 93 to 100 veneer elements and 19 to 30 tiny inlays, using 18 to 25 wood species selected for their varied colours, textures, and grain. Subtle shading, achieved by lightly scorching the wood, adds volume and realism to the plumage. The background features a wood inlay highlighted with gold or silver leaf.
The bezels and lugs sparkle with 112 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.87ct), while the matching white or rose gold prong buckles are set with 29 diamonds (~0.24ct). Dauphine-style hands in white or rose gold complement the design, paired with calfskin leather straps in grained black or beige to echo the dial’s tones.
Powering each piece is the ultra-thin, self-winding calibre 240, visible through a sapphire crystal case back.
This exhibition offers a final chance to view one-of-a-kind creations and limited editions –including pocket watches, wristwatches, and dome clocks – before they join private collections worldwide. Each piece showcases exceptional craftsmanship, celebrating time-honoured techniques such as engraving, cloisonné, miniature enamel painting, flinqué and paillonné enamel, and wood micromarquetry. Visitors can also witness master artisans demonstrating their skills live, offering an intimate look at these refined decorative arts in practice. It’s only open around the time of Watches and Wonders Geneva, early April, so visit patek.com for news of the next event.
