Two kilometres outside the town of Longyearbyen, Norway, there’s a road sign with a simple warning: “Gjelder hele Svalbard.” My grasp of Norwegian is limited, but the message is clear: watch out for the polar bears.
Longyearbyen is the largest settlement in the Svalbard archipelago, and the world’s northernmost town. Locate it on the map, and you’ll be amazed that land exists this far north – well above the Arctic Circle.
It was coal and whaling that first drew adventurers here, but today the mines are closing, and tourism drives the island’s economy. I, like so many others, was drawn to Svalbard by the enigmatic landscapes, the novelty of standing so far north, and the chance to sail south through some of Norway’s most beautiful fjords.
Life under the midnight sun
That road sign wasn’t kidding – there are famously more polar bears than humans on Svalbard, and it’s the chance to admire these formidable animals that draws most summer travellers here.
Beyond the bears, adventure abounds Snowmobile tours, hiking, kayaking, and sailing make Svalbard a haven for thrill seekers, while in winter, the island is bathed in the ghostly glow of the Aurora Borealis.
But in the summertime, when I visit, the island is washed in the ethereal light of the midnight sun. It’s disconcerting on my first night – even blackout blinds fail to help me sleep – but it soon becomes magical. I spend long days on guided hikes – an armed guard is compulsory beyond the town limits – and fjord excursions. There would be enough to keep me busy on Svalbard for a week, but I’m here, mostly, to leave again.
All aboard the MS Trollfjord
On my last afternoon, from a snowy peak in the Blomsterdahlen valley, I watch as the MS Trollfjord motors slowly into Isfjord and docks at the quayside. My ride has arrived.
Hurtigruten has a long history in Norwegian seas. Founded in 1893, their ferries fast became a lifeline for remote villages deep in the nation’s dramatic fjords. And while Hurtigruten’s Coastal Express still operates, ferrying tourists and cargo, the Svalbard Line forms part of their curated, all-inclusive Signature Journeys that are less about the cargo and more about unearthing Norway’s natural and cultural riches.
That evening, we sail out of Isfjord on mercurial waters reflecting the snow-capped peaks. A schooner under sail slips across the bay, an echo of the Arctic expeditions that once departed from here. Guillemots dance across the water, and a glacial silence hangs thick in the air.
Ny-Ålesund: The northernmost settlement
The following morning, we awaken as far towards the North Pole as we would reach: at almost 79°N, the research station of Ny-Ålesund is the northernmost civilian settlement on Earth.
Here, we train binoculars on the bird sanctuary and mail postcards from the world’s most remote post office. In the fjord, two glaciers slowly feed their ice into the Barents Sea.
But as we sail south for one last view of the glaciers, a tannoy crackles: “Polar bear spotted on shore. Make your way to deck six Starboard.” I watch, captivated, as the massive bear prowls off into the icy landscape. An unbelievable stroke of luck.
Life on board
From Ny-Ålesund, we have 36 hours of cruising open ocean before reaching the fjords of northern Norway.
While the MS Trollfjord doesn’t come with the usual trappings of a luxury cruise ship – it hosts just a few hundred guests and you won’t find revue shows or casinos on board – there’s no shortage of diversions.
I spend endless hours on the outdoor promenade deck, scanning the seas for white-beaked dolphins and Arctic fulmars. Indoors, guests linger in the library, sip cocktails in the panoramic 1893 Bar, or head to the auditorium for daily lectures from onboard naturalists on everything from Arctic ecology to Norwegian folklore.
Dining at sea
There’s also ample time to explore MS Trollfjord’s three restaurants: à la carte and generous buffets in Flora, fine dining in Røst, or brasserie-style plates in Arran. The common thread is Hurtigruten’s concept of a Coastal Kitchen, highlighting the farms, fish, and forests along the route.
Expect an abundance of heritage recipes and local produce: elk sausage by charcutier Astrid Regine, or snow crab from local fishermen. The menus showcase Norway’s rich culinary tradition, from tender slow-cooked reindeer to fresh Ling roasted with forest herbs.
The philosophy extends to the 1893 Bar, perched on deck eight with stunning views ahead. Here, Bar Manager Nicolai Trevland pours great passion into a cocktail menu that highlights Norwegian spirits and flavours. Even Norway’s famous ‘brown cheese’ is transformed into a cocktail that improbably tastes like dessert at your grandmother’s.
Through Norway’s fjords
While you’d be happy enough flitting from restaurant to bar and back again, the highlight of the Svalbard Line arrives after Tromsø as the MS Trollfjord begins its meandering journey through the fjords, hopping off for a few hours at beautiful towns and villages.
One rainy afternoon, I set off to discover Svolvær’s historic fish-drying racks and art-filled alleys. The sun shines at Brønnøysund for tidal lakes and a fairytale mountain said to have been pierced by a troll’s arrow. Ålesund is an Art Nouveau delight, while our final stop, Sæbø, offers clapboard houses and turf-roofed barns framed by green slopes and the glassy waters of Hjørundfjord.
“The Hurtigruten ships first sailed to connect the coastal villages; we just happened to enjoy the journey,” said naturalist guide Leonhard Haberl. “It’s not a cruise, it’s a voyage of discovery.”
What To Wear
Even in midsummer, the weather in Svalbard is extreme with sub-zero temperatures and snow, making warm and waterproof outdoor gear essential. For this cruise, I equipped myself with trusted outdoor brand The North Face. Their Off trail Gore-Tex boots stayed 100 percent dry even in soggy tundra, and the Zaneck jacket kept icy ocean breezes at bay.
Base layers are a must, so aim to layer up with a down gilet and fleece. My favourite item? Etip gloves that let you use your phone and camera while keeping your fingers warm.
How to book
- Flights: Direct (daily in summer) flights link Oslo to Longyearbyen.
- Visa: No visa is required for Svalbard, but you’ll need a Schengen visa to transit through Norway. Apply via visa.vfsglobal.com
- Stay: Arrive a few days before the cruise to explore Longyearbyen. The Radisson Blu Polar Spitsbergen is the best hotel in town.
- Bookings: To book Hurtigruten’s Svalbard line, contact Everything Cruising [everythingcruising.co.za] or your preferred agent.
