Graff’s exclusive high jewellery launch at Haute Couture Week earlier this year unveiled a collection featuring magnificent and rare stones. These intricate, contemporary design motifs, featuring graphic abstract lines and bold asymmetrical arrangements, were a testament to the house’s commitment to creating unique pieces. The handcrafted necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings, made in platinum or gold, presented each carefully selected stone in articulated minimalistic metal frameworks.
Highly accomplished diamond setters in Graff’s London workshop meticulously follow Design Director Anne-Eva Geffroy and her team’s drawings, which are developed in line with the house’s stone-led design philosophy. Sam Sherry, Workshop General Manager at Graff, shares behind-the-scenes insights into their production. “Each of our master artisans exemplifies knowledge, experience, passion, precision, commitment, and collaboration. These qualities are evident throughout every Graff creation, including recently completed jewellery pieces such as a Fancy Intense Yellow pear shape and white diamond crossover necklace and pair of earrings set with over 89 carats, and an intricate white diamond bird inspired ring featuring a 3.50 carat oval diamond,” says Sam.
Graff uses only the rarest and most beautiful diamonds and gemstones in its jewellery creations, and they must be mounted discreetly. Every precious metal framework is an artwork, intended to reflect light through each stone while ensuring that it is securely in place. “Our stones are the focal point, and so any mechanisms or components are crafted to be hidden from view – or perhaps in such a way that they communicate a secret or hidden design detail known only to the wearer,” Sam comments.
Working with exceptionally rare or large gemstones, like the Colombian emeralds featured in the Galaxia campaign, can be daunting. How are challenges anticipated and managed? “Emeralds can present several challenges. These are often the result of inclusions deep below the stone’s surface, referred to as the “jardin” or “garden”. These inclusions give each emerald its unique personality; however, they also make them more delicate than diamonds, and so we treat every emerald with the utmost care and attention throughout our setting and polishing processes. We overcome potential challenges or obstacles through careful, rigorous planning and by working with artisans who are experts in their field.
Regardless of their rarity or size, every diamond and gemstone we work with is treated with the same reverence and respect,” says Sam. He adds, “When we received the design for a solitaire ring set with an incredibly rare 17.29 carat emerald cut Colombian emerald, we used the original gouache painting presented to us by Graff’s designers to create a maquette (or model) that was digitally designed and then printed in 3D. After reviewing, checking and testing the maquette, we could proceed with complete confidence. Once the mount had been crafted in platinum, one of our most experienced master artisans was entrusted with setting and securing the emerald. The completed ring is truly exceptional.”
