There are few places on earth where luxury and wilderness intertwine as seamlessly as they do along the banks of the Zambezi. Here, at the edge of one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, Anantara crafts two distinct yet deeply connected experiences – one on the Zimbabwean side of the Victoria Falls, the other in Zambia.
“It’s my source of energy,” our guide Sikhulu Nkomo says of the falls as he takes us on a tour. “Every time I feel a bit low, I wander around here and get my strength back. I love the sound.” And it is deafening in places; his words disappear as we approach the first outlook to view the thundering water, the mist raining down. Although I have visited the falls before, I understand what Sikhulu means – this is not a view you can ever tire of. Sikhulu’s knowledge of the area is, as expected from someone who has guided at the falls for nearly 25 years, both impressive and deeply rooted in a reverence for nature. His pace is deliberately unhurried – stopping at various lookouts for the best views, pausing to identify a bird call – with a gentle smile and knowing nod as we witness Mosi-oa-Tunya, or “The Smoke That Thunders.”
The unhurried pace and quiet pride are visible in every interaction at Anantara Stanley & Livingstone Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe. Located in the private Victoria Falls National Park where game is wonderfully abundant, this is a place where old-world charm meets contemporary allure, where deep leather armchairs, fine crystal, and curated artworks recall the golden age of travel, while modern refinements ensure the utmost comfort. It makes me grab every opportunity I can to simply sit on the patio and absorb the sounds of the birds. The activities on offer allow other ways to experience the surroundings: a morning game drive brings us face-to-face with black rhino, and a languid afternoon spent poolside offers a chance to watch the wildlife stroll down for a drink.
Meals are a sumptuous affair. Breakfast arrives with my name written in the foam of the cappuccino. Then there’s high tea in the garden and gin tasting on the terrace, where I discover the delicious artisanal Victoria Falls Gin. Evenings unfold with a locally inspired Chef’s Table and wine pairing at the hotel’s restaurant, 1871, or a boma braai under a star-drenched sky.
The luxury, as always, lies in the details. A handwritten welcome note from hotel manager Dionne Mutsonziwa placed next to the homemade snacks of nyimo (Bambara groundnuts) and biltong churros, and maize meal and tomato biscotti. Daily messages on a chalkboard from housekeeping. A water bottle with my name on it (equipped with a QR code for easy refills at water dispensers at the hotel and the falls). A farewell note on my dresser… around every corner is a personal touch.
While I am loathe to leave the intimate comfort of Anantara Stanley & Livingstone, I have looked forward to crossing into Zambia to see how much the Royal Livingstone by Anantara has changed since my last visit many years ago. Here, the experience shifts from a bushveld retreat to a riverside escape where the Zambezi sets the rhythm. The hotel’s grand aesthetic is softened by the wildness of its setting: manicured lawns stretch to the river’s edge where zebras graze freely, the resident giraffes parade elegantly, and mischievous monkeys take their chance to grab what they can when eyes are turned. In the distance, the spray of the falls rises in a perpetual mist.
The experience is immersive and there are so many ways to get the most out of a stay. We sip sundowners on the deck at the water’s edge, enjoy silver-service dining at The Old Drift, and eat under the stars while the Victoria Falls String Quartet serenades guests. We also take a cruise along the Zambezi on the African Princess and explore Livingstone Island, perched above the Falls. Once again, the staff goes above and beyond.
While The Royal, as it’s fondly called, may not feel as intimate and personal as the Stanley Livingstone due to its size, it doesn’t diminish the warm and genuine service. Not surprising, considering every member of staff undergoes 18 hours of training a month, according to complex general manager Laurie Burr, who with hotel manager Longa Mulikelela, regales us with hospitality stories that have us in stitches.
What binds these two properties together – beyond Anantara’s signature refinement and staff who ensure every guest experience is memorable – is, of course, the Victoria Falls itself. The world’s largest sheet of falling water, its presence is both an attraction and a force of nature that shapes the region. Experiencing the Falls – whether at sunrise from Knife-Edge Bridge, from the dizzying heights of a helicopter flip, or the precarious vantage of Angel’s Pool – is nothing short of transcendental. And so is the luxury of being embraced by this remarkable force from two sides. As David Livingstone famously said: “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in flight.”
Anantara Stanley & Livingstone Victoria Falls Hotel: From ZAR 16 154 per room per night, inclusive of breakfast. anantara.com/en/stanley-and-livingstone-victoria-falls
The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara: From ZAR 11 204 per room per night, inclusive of breakfast and complimentary access to the Falls. anantara.com/en/royal-livingstone
