“It’s always cocktail hour somewhere” emphasises the idea that having a good time is a universal and continuous activity. “It’s always art week somewhere” is the art world equivalent. “See you at the fair!” is yelled across white-walled trade fair hangars by members of the nomadic, jet-set art pack who roam from fair to fair, always looking fabulous.
At art fairs all over the world, Vernissage VIP night — the private viewing — is always a scene, with visitors and gallerists serving ‘lewks’: a curated, confident presentation of personal style. The fair itself offers not just fresh art but also an abundance of bubbly.
So, what to wear when interlocking with a tribe of artists, collectors, dealers, museum directors, models and poseurs — all of whom have one thing in common? When it comes to art fairs, getting your look together is an unofficial, albeit critical, part of the programme — and one for which you must plan weeks in advance.
The “art-fair default” includes unusual earrings and vintage silk scarves, silk shirts, flat shoes and conceptual pieces: a fedora, a sculptured hat by Crystal Birch, and a coat by BAM Collective
If in doubt, ask what Iris Apfel would do. The arty octogenarian legend famously said: “Life is very grey, so fashion should always be fun.”
Think floor-length leather maximalist coats; sheer, shimmering Viviers; Thabo Makhetha’s “blankets of prestige”; jumpsuits and ruffles in unlikely colours. Andy Warhol wigs, black polar necks and slogan T-shirts — the more obscure and art world in-joke, the better. Statement necklaces, voluminous multi-layers or a one-of-a-kind kaftan by Tamryn Walker, worn with big eyeglass frames in acid colours.
Stevenson Gallery Director Lerato Bereng often spends long hours in the booth and still manages to be a style icon: “The preview day is important – that is the official opening, game day, the kind of art fair wedding day. To honour the occasion, one is inclined to wear one’s Sunday best — a part of the art fair ritual.
“I used to make the rookie mistake of wearing heels, forgetting that largely the job is standing and walking collectors around, so in recent years I have found some cheats. If you look around art fair booths in London, Basel and New York, the seasoned dealer may be stylishly adorned but almost certainly floating on a cloud in the form of an ergonomically sound pair of sneakers.
“I also dress according to my mood. Last September, I was most certainly in a Naija mood, having come back from Lagos days before, so it was a chance to debut all the fab new spoils.”
Photography Credits:
© Anthea Pokroy
© Thekiso Mokhele
© Sfiso Nkadimeng