Hublot came in hot and heavy at Watches and Wonders Geneva, just a few months after revealing new pieces at LVMH Watch Week, a trend that has endured since the beginning of the year.As the weeks fly past, getting us ever closer to the year’s end, we reflect on some of the memorable timepieces we’ve seen so far.
“The launch of the Orlinski range a few years back was an immediate success, and the new Black Ceramic Chronograph launched this year is a great addition to their range. It is difficult to come by, though, seeing it is limited to only 100 pieces,” says Ted Hellström, merchandise executive at Tanur Collection.
Meanwhile, at the world’s biggest watch fair held in Geneva in April, Hublot celebrated 14 years of success with its in-house chronograph movement, UNICO, by releasing five watches with this as their beating heart: Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire; Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic (a first for this shade of ceramic); Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic; Square Bang Unico Magic Gold and Square Bang Unico Magic Gold Ceramic.
“The two pieces we have had the most interest in out of the Watches and Wonders Geneva novelties are Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic and Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Black Magic,” says Ted. “Big Bang Unico has always been popular with their colourful ceramic cases, and this year, we have noticed a lot of interest with the launch of their new Dark Green version on a rubber strap.”
The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire has also generated significant buzz. This model’s exclusivity (limited to 50 pieces) and its innovative use of translucent blue sapphire make it a standout release. This model showcases Hublot’s expertise in in-house movements and exotic materials, further elevating the brand’s reputation for pushing creative boundaries. It boasts a seven-barrel movement arranged coaxially and vertically to maintain a slim profile of 10.9mm, delivering an impressive two-week power reserve. Rather than integrating the barrels within the movement’s thickness, they are mounted at a 90-degree angle in front of it, enhancing both functionality and visual appeal. The vibrant water blue sapphire case, crafted using a proprietary chemical formula with a unique transparency index, undergoes meticulous polishing to achieve flawless clarity and brilliance. The translucent blue colour is achieved for the first time in this piece.
The Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu collection showcases Hublot’s artistic collaboration with brand ambassador Maxime Plescia-Büchi, founder of the Sang Bleu creative studio. These timepieces blend Hublot’s mastery of sapphire material with Plescia-Büchi’s geometric tattoo-inspired designs, resulting in bold and unconventional aesthetics. The intricate, three-dimensional dials reflect Sang Bleu’s signature motifs, underscoring the fusion of art and horology. In addition to these striking sapphire-cased models, Hublot has introduced two high jewellery editions, elevating the collection with meticulously set gemstones and emphasising the brand’s craftsmanship and avant-garde approach to watchmaking.
“2024 marks eight years of collaboration with Hublot, and three iterations: the first in 2016 with the Big Bang Sang Bleu; the second in 2019 with the Big Bang Sang Bleu II; and finally the Spirit of Big Bang in 2023. While every design is produced using a similar approach, transposing the principles of my tattooing across to Hublot’s specific watchmaking space, the result is different every time, as it is applied to a different base. In 2016, it was the Big Bang 3 Hands, in 2019, the Big Bang Chronograph and in 2023 the Spirit of Big Bang Chronograph. This time, in addition, we are transposing what the DNA itself has become, the fusion of Hublot and Sang Bleu, onto a Hublot signature material never before applied to our collaboration: sapphire. This is a highlight for this collaboration because sapphire is, in itself, the most noble material used in the watchmaking industry, while it simultaneously bestows something ghost-like and futuristic, virtually architectural, onto the pieces. This corresponds exactly to what I seek to produce in all my projects,” says Maxime.
Other notable models include the Unico Pink Sapphire and the Big Bang Integrated 38mm. The Unico Pink Sapphire has a transparent pink case crafted from synthetic sapphire, a notoriously tricky material to engineer, especially in such vibrant hues. The watch is powered by the in-house UNICO chronograph movement, offering exceptional precision and a flyback function. This limited-edition model reflects Hublot’s flair for combining unconventional aesthetics with mechanical excellence, making it a standout for collectors drawn to avant-garde designs.
Balancing luxury with wearability, the Big Bang Integrated 38mm introduces a new size to Hublot’s popular lineup. Aimed at versatility and unisex appeal, it is available in King Gold, titanium, and ceramic, with sunray blue or black dial options. While compact, this timepiece retains Hublot’s signature design language, combining robust materials with sophisticated craftsmanship – ideal for those seeking a refined, unisex, everyday watch with a contemporary edge. The integrated bracelet flows seamlessly into the case, reinforcing the sleek, modern look.
