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Leap into Eternity: Celebrating the Timeless Artistry of Perpetual Calendar Watches

With 2024 being a leap year, here’s a look at a few horological marvels that do not skip a beat.

By Debbie Hathway

Over centuries, watchmakers have sought to master the measurement of time by equipping their timepieces with progressively sophisticated astronomical functions. 

“Their timepieces have all paid tribute to astronomy, the guiding light at the heart of our perception of the world around us, from the very first astrolabes to today’s perpetual calendar watches, which may also be equipped with countless, more complex functions such as sidereal time indication, a chart of the heavenly bodies, or even a mechanism for anticipating lunar and solar eclipses – without forgetting the times of sunrise and sunset, the position of the stars as seen from the Earth, or a display of all the pertinent details for each day,” writes Fabienne Lupo in her foreword for Horology, A Child of Astronomy, published by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie when she was the organisation’s chairwoman and MD.

Perpetual calendars automatically account for the 30 or 31 days in a month or leap years extending February by one day. The authors explain that a watch with a perpetual calendar complication that “does not take common century years into account will have to be manually adjusted in 2100, 2200 and 2300 but not 2400. A 48-month dial, borrowed from pocket watches, corresponds to three common years and one leap year. The more legible 12-month dial displays information for the common year and shows the leap year in an aperture or by a hand.”

Patek Philippe 5270J-001

As the rightful successor to Patek Philippe’s revered 1941 classic, the Ref. 1518, the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, available in platinum since 2018, is also available in a yellow gold case with a gracefully contoured bezel and subtly flared strap lugs. Beyond its aesthetic allure, the watch boasts remarkable technical prowess – the Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is Patek Philippe’s inaugural chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar, meticulously developed and crafted in-house.

Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs 

Since October 2023, collectors have been able to view vintage pieces from this collection on the Vacheron Constantin website before booking to view them in person in the brand’s United States, Shanghai or Dubai boutiques.

Examples of these collectible pieces include Ref. 43032, a platinum open-worked perpetual calendar watch with a sapphire dial (1995), which epitomises mechanical watchmaking’s resurgence post-1970s electronic watch era. This masterpiece, featuring the ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 1120, showcases the day, date, month, leap-year cycle, and moon phase, all within a slim 4.05mm thickness. With its skeletonised and decorated movement, this 36mm diameter, 7.5mm thick timepiece is a superb example of the Maison’s mechanical watchmaking excellence.

Meanwhile, Ref. 49005, renowned for its perfect legibility and elegant design, was launched in two versions: pink gold (1995) and platinum (1992). The pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moon phases and black guilloché dial (1995) was produced until the early 2000s. Featuring a 38mm diameter and 12mm thickness gadrooned case, it houses the self-winding Calibre 1136QP, combining chronograph, perpetual calendar, and moon phase functions in a slim 7.10mm movement. 

Greubel Forsey QP à Équation

Following its Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award for the best Calendar Prize, Greubel Forsey introduced its QP à Équation in a 5N red gold millesime with a chocolate-coloured gold dial. This timepiece reinvents the prestigious perpetual calendar (QP) by integrating the Equation of Time and introducing practical new functions for improved clarity. Despite its complexity, Greubel Forsey’s Mechanical Computer ensures ease of use, simplifying the perpetual calendar display and setting process with a bidirectional crown. This exemplifies the perpetual evolution of mechanical watchmaking through inventive design and functionality enhancements.

Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture 

Crafted in collaboration with British watchmaker Peter Speake, the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture reveals the inner workings of its Manufacture movement through captivating openwork design. With minimalist aesthetics and impeccable craftsmanship, it’s a testament to both tradition and modernity. The transparent caseback showcases the distinctive openwork oscillating weight typical of Frederique Constant’s Manufacture movements, powering a 38-hour reserve. Each watch is engraved with “Limited Edition 135 pieces”. The dial organises essential daily information like the day and date horizontally for easy reading from left to right. The month is positioned at 12 o’clock and the moon phase at 6 o’clock along the vertical axis for additional clarity. To address leap years, a discreet red dot appears in the month display at 12 o’clock on February 29, ensuring intuitive readability while keeping the dial uncluttered for everyday use.

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech and Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech

Meanwhile, Panerai’s Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech and Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech enhance the brand’s reputation for innovation with a perpetual calendar complication capable of accurately indicating dates, months with varying days, and leap years. The movement is encased in the iconic Luminor silhouette with its distinctive crown protection system and sandwich dial. The Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech comes in a 44mm case limited to 300 pieces, featuring a striking blue sun-brushed dial and two straps in coordinating blue tones – one in alligator leather and the other in rubber. On the other hand, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech, limited to 100 pieces, is crafted from 950 Platinum, with a green sun-brushed dial and a brown rubber strap. Both models are available exclusively at Panerai boutiques.

IWC Big Pilot 503605

The legendary complication featured in IWC’s Big Pilot 503605 was created by the equally legendary former head of watchmaking Kurt Klaus in the 1980s. Crafted with a stainless-steel case and a striking blue dial with luminescence, adorned with rhodium-plated hands, it exudes timeless elegance. The date display and power reserve sit at 3 o’clock, the month display at 6 o’clock, while the weekday and small seconds share the subdial at 9 o’clock. At 12 o’clock, the double moon phase accurately depicts both Northern and Southern Hemisphere phases, requiring adjustment only once every 577.5 years. 

 

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