Just before Watches and Wonders Geneva earlier this year, I immersed myself in the Apple TV+ series The New Look, a gripping portrayal of fashion icons Coco Chanel and Christian Dior navigating the challenges of Nazi-occupied Paris. The series, as described by The Hollywood Reporter, is a ‘chronicle of a watershed moment in French haute couture when… ‘creation helped return spirit and life to the world’’ post-WWII. It’s a story of resilience, of how difficult choices in trying times could have spelt the end for Chanel, but instead, it became a testament to the brand’s enduring spirit. It could inspire viewers to reflect on the impact of their decisions today.
Chanel, still one of the most highly coveted brands in the luxury sector worldwide, is portrayed in a way that leaves one with ‘the sense that this is history worth knowing,’ even though brand historians might dispute some of the details. This rich historical context brought a fresh perspective when I viewed the novelties at the Chanel booth at Watches and Wonders.
The Couture O’Clock Capsule Collection reflects elements of the icon’s atelier, mannequins, and Mademoiselle herself, embodying Chanel’s legacy of innovation and resilience. Mannequins were used to display timepieces that doubled as jewellery items, blurring the lines between function and fashion – a hallmark of Chanel’s design ethos.
For instance, the Bust Long Necklace Couture showcases a mannequin as a pendant crafted in 18k yellow gold, fully snow-set with diamonds, and trimmed in black lacquer. To read the time, you extend the piece at the waist, revealing a discreet black lacquer dial adorned with yellow gold hands. The collection also features two more sautoir necklaces, incorporating a thimble or a safety pin as the pendant. When turned towards you, the thimble reveals the dial at what would normally be the open end. The safety pin version houses the dial on the closed end, which can be worn against the body or displayed for admirers – an innovative fusion of practicality and elegance.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reportedly said: “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening. But most importantly, fashion is a reflection of the moment – a precious measure of time.” The novelties at Watches and Wonders are a fine example of the output from the Creation Studio at Place Vendôme in Paris, which has been imagining creative ways of representing time in collaboration with the team at the Chanel Watch Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of Swiss watchmaking, since the launch of the Première in 1987. Their guiding principle is “technique in service of creation,” a dialogue between the two artistic centres that defines the style and allure of Chanel timepieces.
The Chanel Watch Manufacture includes a department that only develops and assembles haute horlogerie movements, and another for gem-setting, ensuring that the House controls the entire manufacturing process of its most precious watches. This meticulous attention to detail, a hallmark of Chanel’s haute couture philosophy, goes beyond simply measuring time to enhance women’s allure. Many steps in the process can only be completed by hand, such as assembling links or interlacing leather – artisanal techniques that are evident in the finishing touches on each creation. This commitment to quality ensures that every Chanel timepiece is not just a watch, but a timeless investment in elegance and craftsmanship.
The exhibit also featured extensions to the J12 line, launched in 2000 with an intensely black ceramic watch. Durable and scratch-proof, seven times more resistant than steel, light and soft to the touch, ceramic is a crucial feature in Chanel watchmaking. The J12 itself is emblematic, combining extreme precision, state-of-the-art technology, and faultless graphic depiction to create a watch that is as visually striking as it is technologically advanced. In essence, Chanel’s novelties at Watches and Wonders honour the brand’s storied past and project its timeless elegance into the future. By merging historical inspirations with cutting-edge craftsmanship, Chanel continues to redefine how time is experienced. Echoing Coco Chanel’s belief that “fashion is a reflection of the moment,” the brand showcases its enduring allure through every meticulously crafted piece.
