How far would you travel to feel the magic of a giant, iridescent blue morpho butterfly landing on your hand? Or to lock eyes with a fuzzy-haired sloth – one of nature’s most wonderfully bizarre creations – as it slowly crawls from branch to branch? If your answer is 12 500km and a 24-hour journey – that’s how far it is from South Africa – then Costa Rica is calling.
Visiting this gorgeous country, a global poster child for conservation, is an unforgettable experience. During my two weeks there, I wore a near-permanent grin.
When giant butterflies settle on your hand, you can’t help smiling. Spot a sloth, and that smile spreads from ear to ear. Climb a volcano and watch wafts of smoke drift across endless forests. Taste the tangy local fruits, fall asleep listening to monkeys, or float in the warm Caribbean Sea – those smiles linger for weeks.
A Biodiverse Paradise
A sliver of land in Central America, Costa Rica is one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. It covers just 0.03 percent of the world’s landmass but is home to five per cent of all known species, thriving across its 28 reserves and national parks.
There are more than 200 volcanoes, beaches on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts, 50 species of hummingbird, and the country generates 98 per cent of its electricity from renewable sources.
Costa Rica is hugely popular with North American tourists, fuelling a boom in luxurious lodges and adrenaline-fuelled adventure tourism. You can zipline or swing across bridges in the cloud forests, scale volcanoes, hike, go canyoning, relax in hot springs, or go rafting, surfing, and diving.
Eco-Conscious Policies
From a conservation perspective, Costa Rica is celebrated globally for its transformative policies. The country shifted its approach from agricultural expansion to prioritising conservation and sustainability, proving that environmental degradation is reversible.
But it wasn’t always a Garden of Eden. Banana and pineapple plantations were notorious for poor working conditions in the mid-20th century, and deforestation from monoculture farming and cattle ranches, threatened biodiversity. In the 1990s, Costa Rica had one of the worst deforestation rates in the world.
Recognising the devastating effect on ecosystems and wildlife, the government implemented strict conservation strategies. Today, Costa Rica is the only tropical country that has reversed deforestation. Land has been rewilded and regenerated, industry monopolies broken, and sloth-protection measures applied so these creatures can live freely in the wild. Across the country, you’ll see signs reminding you that animals aren’t here for our amusement – so no selfies with the monkeys, please.
The national motto of Pura Vida – pure life – captures the country’s eco-conscious spirit.
Planning Your Visit
The boom in tourism brings fresh challenges with it, and high-season tickets for popular parks sell out weeks in advance. Travelling in the low season (May to November) is an alternative, but heavy rain and mudslides can cause road closures.
Most visitors land in the capital city, San José, which serves mainly as a gateway to Costa Rica’s natural wonders.
Tortuguero & Savegre Highlights
One of many highlights is Tortuguero National Park on the Caribbean coast, accessible only by boat from the town of Caño Blanco. Chug along jungle waterways with a guide who points out colourful kingfishers, toucans, lazy iguanas, or sharp-toothed caiman basking in the sun.
The rustic Evergreen Lodge sits in this “mini-Amazon” with chalets connected by wooden walkways. Glassless windows allow you to fall asleep under a mosquito net to the sounds of nature. The lodge is a boat ride from the car-free village of Tortuguero, where more than 5 000 green turtles nest annually–a unique eco-tourism experience.
On the Pacific side lies the Savegre Cloud Forest, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in the Talamanca mountains and home of the resplendent quetzal, an exquisite but elusive bird with a red breast, green crest, and a long, shimmering tail. I skipped the quetzal quest for time in the sauna and steam room at Savegre Nature Reserve and Spa, a lodge with spacious rooms and a cosy bar.
Slightly further north on the Pacific coastline, Manuel Antonio National Park offers pristine beaches where rainforest meets the sea. Known for its diverse fauna and flora, this is where sloths abound – although they’re devilishly hard to spot in the treetops.
How to get there
Flights with just one connection include:
- Johannesburg to Zurich with Swiss Air, then onto San José
- Cape Town via Newark in the US with United Airlines
- Qatar Airways via Doha and New York
- London and Miami via British Airways and Avianca
Uber operates in San José, and several local tour companies, such as Adventure Tours (adventuretourscostarica.com) can arrange bespoke itineraries.
When in Costa Rica
Sloth spotting: Ironically, your best chance might be in San José – they’ve taken to the rewilded campus of San José University.
Monkey business: Listen to the ghostly cries of howler monkeys, try to outsmart the scavenging capuchins, and enjoy the acrobatics of spider monkeys.
Hot Springs: After hiking to the smouldering crater of Arenal Volcano, relax in the natural hot springs. Options include the luxurious Tabacón with five pools and a swim-up bar, or pools amid lush vegetation at the Springs Resort and Spa.
Beach Bliss: Torn between the Caribbean or the Pacific? Costa Rica is so small that you can do them both in one holiday. The Pacific side is more developed, and it’s great for surfing. The Caribbean coast is laid-back with jungles and rustic hotels.
- Foodie Feasts: Try the national dish of gallo pinto – rice and beans with scrambled or fried eggs.Other local staples include corn and fried plantains, jazzed up with spicy salsa Lizano sauce, served with chicken or beef. Lunch often features casado, a plate of rice, beans, salad, tortillas, fried plantain, and meat.
Handy tip: The US influence has increased prices, making Costa Rica expensive by Latin American standards. On the plus side, US Dollars are accepted everywhere.
