My Instagram feed may give ‘curated editor’, but in real life, I’m more ‘clumsy writer’. No day proved this more to me than one of the most memorable days 2025 has served up so far; a day of the most resplendent meal of my entire 45-year existence. No, this is not hyperbole. I started the day at Krone’s historic Twee Jonge Gezellen estate in a crisp white, linen ensemble smelling like the Bvlgari fragrance I had put on that morning, but ended up with chocolate on my pants, top, and bag, looking like a toddler at a kiddies’ party. But before I tell you how I ended up with chocolate on my person, I will say this: that meal was worth every sticky, sweet, and annoying chocolate stain… (sidenote, the melting chocolate had nothing to do with the meal)
Against the backdrop of the Tulbagh mountains, Krone, South Africa’s vintage-only cap classique producer, launched its first-of-its-kind Chefs Residency this February. The programme marked a new chapter in Krone’s legacy of artistic collaboration – this time with culinary virtuosos whose philosophies mirror the winery’s blend of innovation and reverence for the land. Before the two-hour drive from Whatiftheworld Gallery in Cape Town’s CBD to the Tulbagh Valley, I met and fell madly and stupidly head over heels with designer and LVHM 2021 prize winner (and general dope human), Lukhanyo Mdingi. Before we arrive at Krone to ridiculously delicious crostini canapes made with wagyu beef, and a short film introducing us to Fergus Henderson – more on who he is in a bit – Lukhanyo and I laugh, hold each other so tight we almost merge, and I know there and then that I’ve not only just had one of the best meals of my life but may have possibly met one of my favourite people on the planet.
After experiencing dangerous winds the night before, the last day of the Chefs Residency is glorious – sunny, hot and inspiring. The gods of gastronomy are with us. The debut of the Krone Chefs in Residence programme brought together global gastronomic icons — Margot Henderson OBE of London’s Rochelle Canteen and author of You’re All Invited: Margot’s Recipes for Entertaining; Fergus Henderson OBE, co-founder of the acclaimed St John and the pioneer of Nose-to-Tail cooking with books such as Nose to Tail Eating; Thai-Parisian sensation Rose Chalalai Singh, founder of Rose Kitchen in Paris; and Hector Henderson, head chef at Rochelle Canteen and torchbearer of the family’s culinary ethos. Fergus, originally trained as an architect, was recently awarded the Lifetime Achievement award at The UK’s Top New Restaurant Awards. This year marks 30 years of St. John, and even after being diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease in 1998, sitting across from Fergus and his daughter at lunch, I could tell that at the table with friends and family is where Fergus finds contentment. “I’m his number one fan. I believed in him from the beginning,” beamed Margot when asked about Fergus being honoured with the prestigious award. Together with Rose, they transformed Krone’s estate into an open-air salon of flavours, ideas and beautifully paired wines.
Of Soil, Salt, and Shared Tables
The residency took the form of three lunches, each set around one long communal table. The menu was a tribute to simplicity, executed with elegance and rooted in South African terroir. Among the standout dishes was the outstanding open-fire grilled quail – smoky, tender, and delicately charred – it’ll probably feature in my life-flash reel as I transition to the next dimension, that’s how good it was. The red drum, also known as Mauritian sea bass, served with a cucumber salad, was so unbelievably simple it made me think of Steve Jobs’ quote, “Simple can be harder than complex”. Rose’s Thai sausage brought bold, aromatic spices into the mix, bridging rustic comfort with cosmopolitan flair. And for dessert, the pillowy Madeleines that have been a fixture on the St. John’s menu were damn-near biblical. I’m almost embarrassed to admit that I took three for the ride back to Cape Town. But I have no regrets, I listen to Brene Brown, and I won’t let shame muzzle me, those madeleines were worth every moment on my lips…
Each bite was elevated by an equally memorable pour. From Krone’s own Amphora Blanc de Blancs 2022, Twee Jonge Gezellen Blanc de Blancs 2021, and the rare R.D. 2013, to neighbouring vintages like Reyneke’s Reserve White 2017 and Porseleinberg’s Syrah 2016, the wine selection was as intentional as the food. As Danica Lepen, Strategic Lead at Krone, shared, “The chefs tasted through a wide range of wines – many, in fact, to develop pairings they felt confident and inspired by.”
Beyond the food, what made the residency remarkable was its spirit of collaboration and place. Produce was sourced from nearby farms and biodynamic growers such as Reyneke, while vegetables were harvested directly from Krone’s own gardens. The chefs found joy in the unfamiliar and the abundant – “almost overwhelming in the best way,” according to Lepen.
Krone has long supported the arts through its partnership with Whatiftheworld Gallery, and this event built on that foundation. The team worked with local culinary talent, including Table 7, and shared kitchen space in a beautiful exchange of expertise and enthusiasm. In the dining space, a looping screening of Fergus (2016) by artist T.J. Wilcox added an emotional depth — a reminder that food, like art, is a cultural artefact. “Nature writes an amazing menu for you. You just have to pay attention,” says Fergus in the film.
A toast to what’s to come
What made this culinary convergence even more impactful was the human connection. “At Krone, collaboration is at the heart of everything we do,” said Lepen. “The idea for this first residency emerged from an organic conversation. They had never been to South Africa, so we invited them over. From there, the project took root naturally.” The experience was further enriched by the presence of winemakers like Johan Reyneke (what a delightful human being. I was lucky to sit next to him, and he made sure my glass was never empty) and Callie Louw of Porseleinberg, adding regional context and personality to each glass poured.
While Krone’s residency was conceived as a pilot, its success has sparked interest in future editions. “We approached this first residency as a test,” Lepen explained, “but the joy, connection, and creativity it sparked have inspired us to continue when the timing and opportunity feel right.”
And why not? The fusion of Krone’s rich winemaking heritage with the culinary philosophies of icons like the Hendersons and Singh has proven fertile ground. More than a series of meals, it was a conversation across continents – a masterclass in flavour, sustainability, and the generosity of the shared table. For me personally, it meant connecting with incredible people like Lukhanyo, who inspires me on a human level as he does on a creative level. Like the melted chocolate I had stuck in my Porter bag – as a snack that I never had for the trip to Tulbagh – I found myself realising that Forrest Gump was right, life is truly the box of chocolates we’re all waiting to share with someone.
When we break bread, we open the conversation to new opinions, new ideas of being and new ways to see the world. Africa may not be recognised in the Michelin-culinary world, but our gastronomic story has history, diversity, and so much heart. That’s what makes us who we are. The Krone Chefs in Residence has not just raised the bar – it’s set a new standard for what wine farms in South Africa can aspire to.
