Travis Obeng-Casper has been breaking barriers and making waves since he launched his unisex fashion brand, Ajabeng in 2020 fresh from college. That same year he made his runway debut at Arise Fashion Week, one of Africa’s biggest fashion week events. His collection was so good that he was selected as one of the top 8 finalists in the 30 under 30 showcase. Since then, he’s proceeded to present at Lagos Fashion Week and has found support from chart-topping musicians like Jidenna and Mr Eazi, who have worn his designs. Obeng-Casper credits Ajabeng’s success to his resourceful nature and consistency. “80 to 90 per cent of everything I do is self-taught,” he reveals via a video call from Ghana. The creative director just returned home from Nigeria where he unveiled his latest collection Heritage in Motion.
This season, he presents traditionally handwoven garments crafted from locally sourced cotton. It’s a “new phase” for the brand he says. Following a two-year development process, the trans-seasonal collection explores Ghanaian workmanship and Afro-minimalism. It features a range of pristine-looking billowing sets, wide-leg trousers, and shirts in mostly muted colours and exquisite textiles. It’s the kind of sleek style a dandy and classic dresser would love to find themselves in. Obeng-Casper’s aesthetic is pared back yet equally powerful, conjuring feelings of nostalgia and a sartorial vibe that defined African life and style in the 1950s and 60s. His collections have been inspired by heroic figures such as the Pan-Africanist Kwame Nkrumah and the work of French-Senegalase filmmaker and actress Mati Diop.
For Obeng-Casper, fashion is a feeling. “I’m an old soul and I enjoy the past, especially the post-colonial era and its vibrancy,” he explains with a smile. “As African designers, we are doing what’s important to us”, he continues, referring to his references that draw heavily from African heritage and culture.
However, before fully realising his fashion ambitions, this designer’s childhood goal was to be a sportsman. While he has always been drawn to fashion, there was a point in Obeng-Casper’s life when football was his world. He lights up when we talk about those early days. “It’s been an incredible journey,” he reminisces with a beaming expression and a breath of relief. Our fashion contributor Innocent Ndlovu chats to Travis Obeng-Casper about his sudden journey from a rising footballer to becoming one of Ghana’s leading fashion designers shaping the country’s blossoming fashion scene.
What’s the story behind your new collection?
“One of the things we did is to reimagine our local textiles into lightweight fabrics. Ghanaian fabrics like Kente and Fugu are a bit stiff and heavy and it’s not extremely soft in a way that it can be worn every day.”
Do ideas come easily to you?
“Before I start a collection, I [usually] have about three ideas I would like to communicate. I follow a three-step design process of research, referencing, and creative direction. The research process takes 2 to 3 months for me to fully understand what I want to talk about. After the research, I’m able to develop a theme and references. Design is born out of research. I’m not a technical designer in the sense that I’m not always behind a table drafting patterns.”
How has your childhood and the environment you grew up in influenced you as a designer?
“My mom dressed very differently from typical Ghanaian women. She was fashion-forward and had lots of fabrics (growing up). She did not necessarily influence me to become a fashion designer but her personal style [made me] look at things differently in terms of my unisex approach [to design].
Take me through your transition from football to fashion. How did that happen?
I was one of the top two players in my neighbourhood. If you mention my name [in football circles] there’s some history of a few academies so I was that guy. Then all of a sudden, one day I realised that fashion was it for me.
How has your brand evolved in the last four years?
“We’ve made seven collections so far. That’s a major achievement for a brand like us especially in Ghana where fashion is not extremely appreciated. The kind of people that the brand has attracted is mind-blowing. For Lagos Fashion Week to send us an initiation is a big deal. To me that’s progress.”
What does luxury mean to you?
“Luxury is comfort, stability, and understanding your environment. If I go to the market and I’m able to afford something that I feel I can have a sense of pleasure in, that’s luxury.
Are there any designers who inspire you today and why?
“One of my favourite brands is Thebe Magugu. Thebe Magugu and Wales Bonner made me understand what it means to research and reference. I believe in what he’s [Thebe Magugu] doing with the cultural and heritage-inspired collections. I also love Mmuso Maxwell, Uni Form, and Lukhanyo Mdingi. For Ajabeng, [we like to focus on] both the heritage storytelling and cultural narrative. I want to promote and preserve that.”
What are you most excited about for the future?
“I’m excited about creating more value for our local textiles. It’s important (to me) to promote and champion our techniques. My goal is to revive our cotton industry and train a lot of artisans in new weaving techniques.”
