5 innovative watches launched at Watches and Wonders Geneva

Innovation in watchmaking inspires performance, drives authenticity, builds brands, attracts buyers and develops a fan base. The world’s greatest annual watch fair is the perfect launch pad

By Debbie Hathway

Watchmakers are the guardians of tradition in the watchmaking craft, but innovation underpins longevity. In an ultra-competitive environment, designers can help brands differentiate themselves by blending tradition with modern technology to meet contemporary needs and preferences. This fosters precision, durability, and functionality advancements, enhancing the user experience. Moreover, innovative techniques and materials can reduce environmental impact and improve sustainability. By perpetually pushing the boundaries of design and engineering, watchmakers can attract new audiences and stay relevant in a rapidly evolving market.


IWC Schaffhausen

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar, IWC’s first “secular” perpetual calendar, is a testament to the exclusivity of the Manufacture’s offerings. Recognising the lengths of the months, adding a leap day every four years, and considering the Gregorian calendar’s leap year exceptions, this masterpiece is designed to skip three leap years that would normally occur at the end of a century over a 400-year timespan. Its moon phase display is so accurate that it will only deviate by one day in 45 million years. POA, iwc.com.


Ulysse Nardin

The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is a true marvel that perfectly balances avant-garde technologies with traditional hand craftsmanship. This new 99-piece 20-patent limited edition watch, still without a dial, hands, or crown, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation. The hand-assembled movement incorporates silicon balance wheels and hairsprings, DIAMonSIL-coated escapements, a double oscillator linked by a vertical differential and a Grinder® automatic winding system. The rotating hour disc behind the movement is hand-finished with a diamond guilloché pattern, adding a touch of elegance to its innovative design.


Owners of the new Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition PAM01405 will be treated to an experience that perfectly complements the upcoming America’s Cup and Panerai’s partnership with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team during the Barcelona finals. This unique experience is a testament to the exclusivity of the PAM01405 Experience Edition, the first Submersible in 45mm to feature a tourbillon complication and incorporate Carbotech™, a composite material based on carbon fibre. The patented tourbillon completes a horizontal rotation every 30 seconds instead of every 60 seconds. Limited to 20 pieces. POA, panerai.com


Beauregard, a brand known for its commitment to haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie, unveils its inaugural men’s watch, Ulysse. This timepiece embodies the seamless fusion of these two crafts – a journey among friends, an odyssey of craftsmanship. The reveal follows several years of research and a three-year development phase, powered by Vianney Halter’s renowned automatic movement with mysterious winding. The handmade haute joaillerie dial made from 18K rose gold and 68 flawlessly hand-polished aquamarines is crafted to resemble a stained-glass window. Limited to 10 pieces. POA, beuregard.ch


Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 14-Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire honours the brand’s commitment to R&D and technical excellence through its movement and exterior. The MP-11 features a sculptural seven-barrel movement – coaxial and vertical to maintain a conventional height of 10.9mm – with a two-week power reserve. The barrels are not integrated into the thickness of the movement but are set in front of it at 90°. The water blue sapphire of the case is based on a custom chemical formula and exclusive transparency index, polished to perfection. POA, murdocks.co.za, hublot.com

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