From our earliest scribbles to the masterpieces of adulthood by those of us blessed with artistic talent, nature has always been a favourite muse. And nature’s influence on jewellery design is as old as the art form itself.
An emotional response to nature
From ancient civilisations using natural materials like shells and stones to adorn themselves, to 19th-century jewellery where floral motifs symbolised love and beauty, nature has always been cherished. The Art Nouveau movement (late 19th and early 20th centuries) embraced this inspiration more expressively. Artisans like René Lalique transformed vines, flowers, and insects into sinuous, flowing forms, breaking away from rigid, geometric designs to celebrate the vitality of the living world. Modern luxury houses continue this legacy, infusing it with innovative interpretations.
The story in the stone
Caroline Scheufele, artistic director and co-president of Chopard, believes nature’s influence (as well as art and travel) is deeply intertwined with her design philosophy. The intricate patterns and vibrant energy of the world around her fuel her imagination and inspire her to find the perfect gemstones to tell these stories.
“High jewellery is about sublimating gemstones,” Caroline explains. “Their unique properties and stories are special to me and frequently inspire my creations. Precious stones really speak to me; I can feel their energy, and I spend a lot of time studying them and thinking of various designs.”
To that end, Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection for 2024, Contes de Fées, envisioned by Caroline and enhanced by the talents of passionate artisans, transports us to a world where the magic of fairy tales comes to life through high jewellery. Drawing on the universal appeal of folklore, she taps into the enchanted forests, mystical creatures, and timeless stories that have captivated imaginations for centuries. This whimsical collection showcases 77 one-of-a-kind pieces, each inspired by nature’s most fantastical elements – from talking animals to majestic, enchanted landscapes – continuing Chopard’s tradition of honouring the animal and plant kingdoms in the most innovative way.
An emotional connection
Van Cleef & Arpels reinvents nature’s forms through the refined asymmetry of its Frivole collection. At the same time, the maison’s iconic Alhambra line nods to the geometric clover motif, rooted in natural symbolism yet adapted to contemporary tastes. Flora has been an emblematic source of inspiration for the maison since its founding in 1906, with collectable pieces featuring blooming flowers and lush gardens. The vast and vibrant gemstone hues reflect nature’s vitality and the rhythm of the seasons; emeralds represent leaves, sapphires the sky, and pink diamonds, among others, the ethereal blossoms. The Van Cleef & Arpels garden is a riot of colour, full of birds, butterflies, ladybugs, cats, and turtles.
Nature is also a recurring motif in Graff’s collections, emphasising the emotional connection to nature. And while Cartier is known for its Panthère creations, this year’s Nature Sauvage collection reveals a new perspective on the Cartier Fauna as they are presented in unexpected iterations.
Chaumet’s Bee My Love collection draws inspiration from nature’s tireless worker, the bee, and uses hexagonal designs to mimic honeycomb patterns. Piaget’s Rose collection is directly inspired by this much-loved bloom and Yves Piaget’s passion for the flower.
