Since joining Tudor in 2008, Head of Design Ander Ugarte has played a pivotal role in shaping the brand’s contemporary identity. The Spanish-born designer, who studied in Italy and began his career at Rolex, has overseen the development of cornerstone collections, including the Black Bay and Pelagos. Meeting at Watches and Wonders, he reflected on his design journey, Tudor’s defining philosophy, and the balance between heritage and innovation.
Design as a Language
For Ander, design is instinctive. “It’s like a language,” he says of his early years studying design in Italy. Originally trained in automotive design, he approaches creativity intuitively, drawing inspiration from everything around him.
Though hand sketching still plays a role when developing entirely new concepts, much of Tudor’s current work involves evolving established forms through digital refinement. That process is evident in Tudor’s latest releases, including the sapphire blue iteration of the Black Bay 54 in a historically proportioned 37mm case with a 200m depth rating. Its vivid colour comes from layered finishing techniques that create brightness and depth. Blue remains central to Tudor’s DNA, particularly across its dive watch portfolio. “The blue should always be something you find in our collections,” says Ander.
Refining Tudor’s Icons
Longevity, he believes, comes not from trend-driven design but from remaining faithful to brand identity. This philosophy has guided the expansion of Tudor’s strongest families, particularly Black Bay and Pelagos, which he says now evolve through meticulous refinement of proportion, movement performance, and finishing detail. “For us, this is much more about passion.”
Among current releases, Ander cites the 41mm Black Bay Ceramic – which he was wearing during our interview – as a more classical standout, now elevated by Tudor’s newly engineered ceramic three-link bracelet. “It’s special,” he says. “We have played with the finish on black ceramic – from sandblasting to achieve one tone to polishing for a very bright, strong black. Satin finishing on the bezel creates a totally different effect, while the dial is more anthracite.”
The monochromatic effect is deceptively complex. With galvanic treatment and sunray finishing, the dial shifts under different light, producing grey-blue or even greenish hues. Low-contrast detailing, including bright black applied hour markers with grey luminescent material, adds interest while maintaining readability. Entirely black-on-black – or, as Ander notes, more accurately black-on-charcoal – the piece pairs technical innovation with a stealth aesthetic that feels both contemporary and unmistakably Tudor.
Tudor’s Creative Playground
Tudor’s relationship with Rolex is essential to understanding its positioning as the sister brand. Ander explains that Tudor was founded by Rolex creator Hans Wilsdorf to offer “the best possible quality at a lower price.” Early Tudor watches shared Rolex Oyster cases but housed different movements. Today, while the technical lineage remains, Tudor has evolved into what Ander describes as the group’s “playground” – a space with greater creative freedom.
Working for Tudor has allowed him to express himself across both sport and more elegant watchmaking.
This creative freedom is also evident in collections such as the Tudor Royal, where refinement and technical precision reinforce the brand’s reputation for exceptional value. The latest releases, for example, feature a slimmer case, redesigned fluted bezel and T-Fit clasp, elevating wearability and perceived quality across 30mm, 36mm, and 40mm references.
One of the most technically demanding changes was the redesign of the bezel. The sharply defined geometric facets are entirely machined rather than polished by hand. “If you want those edges to be really sharp, like mirrors in steel, it’s very complicated,” Ander notes. The result is a more angular, architectural profile that delivers stronger light play and a noticeably more premium visual presence.
This attention to detail extends to the dial, where reflective hour markers and Roman numeral options create added dimension.
Ander believes Tudor’s ultimate USP lies in balancing technical credibility, robust design language, and accessible luxury. “We offer quality, technicality and strong identity for a lot of people,” he says, a formula that continues to set Tudor apart.
Images: Supplied
