Reimagining icons and pioneering innovation are all in a year’s work for Christian Knoop, IWC’s Chief Design Officer, who we caught up with at Watches and Wonders Geneva earlier this year. Designing luxury timepieces requires a delicate balance between honouring the brand’s storied past and pushing the boundaries of the future. Knoop elaborated on this challenge, particularly in the context of IWC’s perpetual calendar watches.
“IWC has a strong history in calendar watches, ever since Kurt Klaus introduced the first perpetual calendar for us in 1985. This is a category we keep working on, no matter what the trend is,” he said. This steadfast dedication to mechanical excellence is evident in their latest perpetual calendar, which boasts a secular calendar function accurate up to at least 3999. The achievement was recently acknowledged with the highest honour at the GPHG Awards, where the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar received the prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix.
Knoop revealed the intricate process of translating such mechanical prowess into compelling designs. “When you talk about movement performance, eternity, and longevity, how do you translate that into aesthetics? That was tricky,” he admitted. The goal was to elevate the timeless design cues of collections like the Portugieser while introducing new elements that convey the exceptional value of these complications.
Looking Ahead
The journey of bringing a new collection to life is a marathon, not a sprint. Knoop disclosed that IWC’s product pipeline stretches long into the future. This long-term planning means that the brand cannot simply chase fleeting trends. “We have to continuously nurture and develop our vision for the brand, ,” he explained. The focus remains on perfecting the craft in areas where IWC has historically excelled, such as chronographs and calendar watches.
Yet, even with a far-reaching product roadmap, Knoop finds joy in the present. “To present a new Portugieser collection [like this one] is an exciting moment of reality when the work finally becomes public, and we see people’s reactions,” he reflected. But his true passion lies in the designs yet to be revealed. “If I had to compare myself to an IWC watch, it would always be the one coming out in three years,” he confessed. “I’m very forward-looking, and my heart is always with what’s next.”
Balancing Tradition and Innovation
Reflecting on IWC’s major launches from 2023, Knoop highlighted the relaunch of the iconic Ingenieur collection and the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 introduction. Initially designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, the Ingenieur was reborn in a 40mm format that resonates with enthusiasts and collectors. “We had a lot of enthusiastic reactions,” he said. “It’s a watch with a long history, and bringing it back was significant for us.” On the other hand, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph represents a different design philosophy, merging the brand’s storied aviation lineage with a nod to motorsport.
Knoop emphasised using materials like titanium, which was key in both collections. “We could see a big interest in materials, especially titanium,” he noted, underlining the industry’s growing focus on innovation in materials. This aligns with IWC’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking while staying true to its brand DNA.
The Pursuit of Recognisability
Standing out in an increasingly crowded watch market is more challenging than ever. Knoop believes that creating innovative designs that are instantly recognisable as IWC is the key to success. “What makes the difference between just another beautiful watch and a successful product is exactly that recognisability,” he said. “Something that stands out, can be associated with the brand, and tells a story.”
The demand for creativity in the industry has never been higher, with consumers seeking not just watches but experiences and connections. “Our customers can build an emotional connection when they see the passion for detail and love that goes into our designs,” he remarked. This deep understanding of consumer desires drives IWC’s commitment to infuse every collection with authenticity and innovation.
A Future Shaped by Passion and Vision
Christian Knoop remains focused on the future as IWC continues exploring new design and materials frontiers. His forward-thinking approach ensures that IWC will preserve its legacy and lead the way in modern watchmaking for years.
In a world where trends come and go, IWC’s unwavering dedication to excellence and innovation promises a timeless appeal that resonates with seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts. As Knoop aptly said, “Our daily effort is to find exactly the authentic formula and where we feel the passion. That’s what makes an IWC watch truly special.”
