At the turn of the 20th century, Capri – and its sister town Anacapri – had become havens for artists and writers who sought quiet inspiration and a more liberal existence. In the ’50s and ’60s, Capri was discovered by the glitterati and was soon the European playground for the rich and famous, with iconic images of Jackie O in her Capri pants and huge sunglasses circulating in the ’70s. Fast forward to the present day – Lily James holidayed there recently, and in June, Jacquemus hosted his 15th anniversary runway show in celebration of his new Capri boutique. Pronounced CUP-ree (not cup-REE), the Italian island has bewitched its visitors for centuries, many of whom return annually for the summer.
Some say Capri’s allure is its enduring mystique; a lemon-scented whiff of those la dolce vita days when you would simply put on your jewels and head to the beach. For me, Capri’s magnetic charm has been constant – as much as things change, it also stays the same. The small island, with only 13 000 residents, has become one of Italy’s most popular holiday destinations – tagged in more than four million Instagram photos from influencers to celebrities – Capri beckons with its mountainous landscape and rugged coastline, its glamorous hotels and shops, alfresco restaurants, and colourful beach clubs.
It’s the sweet smell of the bakery, lemon granitas, and pistachio gelato served in wafer cones that are made on the spot. It’s lying next to the pool on stripey towels, and siestas in the hot afternoon as the cicadas sing their summer tune. It’s gloriously balmy evenings in the Piazzetta where waiters wear white tuxedo jackets and the drinks costa plenty.
Then there’s the old cobbler who still makes leather sandals on the corner and restaurant owners who greet you as if you’d never left. It’s shopping until late and clubs only opening at midnight, a glimpse of a Hollywood star on Via Camerelle, or a nightcap on the deck at the Grand Hotel Quisisana where the piano tinkles in the background and people chat about Valentino’s yacht anchored in the bay. It’s early morning walks when the cobbled streets are quiet and vendors set up their stalls with plump fruit and larger-than-life tomatoes, eggplants, and zucchini.
On the other side of the bay off the southern east tip of the island, the Faraglioni rocks emerge majestically out of the sea. They are the recognised symbol of the island, perhaps most memorable to some in D&G’s sensual fragrance adverts. To see them, take a stroll along the bougainvillea-lined Via Tragara, past little shops and Madonna shrines, ancient villas, and elegant hotels until you reach the breath-taking view at the end. But the best way is to see them, and other landmarks, is by boat. In fact, a visit to Capri isn’t complete without a private boat trip around the island, and most hotels can easily arrange them.
Over the years – and this is something that has changed – Capri’s tourist attractions such as the Blue Grotto, are almost impossible to see during the high season. Hordes of boats bob up and down for hours as people wait their turn to be serenaded into the cavern. The Grotto’s entrance is only a metre high, so you have to lie in the bottom of a rowboat and catch the tide in and out at the right time. It’s easier than it sounds, and the luminous blue water is a sight to behold. If patience wears thin, however, there’s a green grotto further along where you can swim in the aqua-marine sea.
To get into some of Capri’s more exclusive beach clubs, such as La Fontelina, bookings need to be made months before it opens for the summer. Instantly recognisable with its signature blue-and-white umbrellas, the family-owned restaurant opened in1949 and some of the original southern Italian dishes are still served alfresco style under the straw pergola. My favourites: polpette di melanzane, spaghetti al vongole and plates of prosciutto melone and Caprese salad, all washed down with iced sangria.
Each time the ferry eases out of the Marina Grande, and I watch Capri’s colours fade into the distance like the last days of a summer tan, I’ve often felt like I’ve stepped in and out of a bubble. But I do know this – Capri will always be there… and nothing really changes. See you next time, bella isola.
Capri Cheat Sheet:
Stay:
There are hotels and rentals available in both Capri and Anacapri on most travel websites. We like:
- La Scalinatella; com
- La Luna Hotel; com
- Capri Palace Jumeirah; com
- Grand Hotel Quisisana; com
- La Mamela; com
- Hotel Villa Brunella;
- Hotel La Palma; com
Eat:
- La Capannina; com
- La Faraglioni; com
- Aurora; com
- Paulino; com
- La Grotelle at Arco Naturale, +39 081 837 5719
Beach Clubs
- La fontalina: com
- Il Riccio Restaurant and beach Club (Anacapri); com
- Da Gioia by La Palma; com
- Da Luigi ai Faraglioni; com
- Public beaches are cheaper and easy to get to
Shop:
You’ll find all the designer shops from Ralph Lauren and Loro Piano to Gucci and Chanel, Pomellato, and Dior. Fabulous boutiques and jewellery stores also line the cobbled backstreets off the main drag, and you can pick up gifts and souvenirs anywhere.
When to go:
Capri gets very busy in the high summer season. June, early July, and September are the best times to visit. Many hotels are closed in the winter months, but open over Christmas, New Year, and Easter.
Getting around:
Open-air taxis, the funiculare, buses, and Vespas, which can be hired in areas where cars are allowed.
Getting there:
It’s not always easy getting to Capri as flights from city centres into Europe tend to be rescheduled or re-routed during peak summer months. From Rome, you can drive, take the train, or get your hotel to organise a private transfer to the port in Naples. From there, it’s a one-hour ride on the hydrofoil to the Marina Grande in Capri.
