The LVMH Prize for emerging talents, the acclaimed initiative designed to support and showcase young fashion designers from around the globe, has long kept an eye on South Africa’s top talents. Established in 2014 by luxury conglomerate LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), the prize aims to foster innovative talent in the fashion industry, promoting the creativity and entrepreneurial spirit of emerging designers.
Of course, the prestige of the LVMH Prize lies in its association with one of the most recognised luxury brands in the world. LVMH is internationally known for its commitment to style, craftsmanship and timeless elegance, making the prize a sought-after accolade for aspiring designers wanting to make a name for themselves. Winners not only receive a significant monetary award of €300 000 – they’re also treated to career guidance through a yearlong mentorship programme that provides vital resources and industry insight.
Over the years, the LVMH Prize has kick-started the careers of some of the fashion industry’s most extraordinary talents. One of the prize’s most notable winners was the late Virgil Abloh, who received the nod in 2015. He went on to become the artistic director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear and founded his own brand, Off-White. South Africa, too, has showcased remarkable talent during the competition, with three designers gaining LVMH’s recognition in recent years.
Thebe Magugu made headlines when he was announced as the overall winner of the LVMH Prize in 2019, while Sindiso Khumalo was a finalist in the 2020 edition. In 2021, Lukhanyo Mdingi scooped the Karl Lagerfeld Prize.
Meet the three LVMH-approved designers who are not only shaping the future of fashion in South Africa but also raising the country’s profile on the global runway.
Thebe Magugu, LVMH Prize winner (2019)
Born in 1993 on the outskirts of Kimberley, South African designer Thebe Magugu studied fashion at the London International School of Fashion (LISOF) in Johannesburg where he developed a keen sense of cultural storytelling through his designs. When Magugu founded his eponymous label in 2016, it instantly gained attention for its distinctive blend of luxury and African heritage. But his real break came in 2019 when he became the first African designer to win the LVMH Prize, further propelling both his career and brand to new heights.
By 2022, he once again gained global attention when he launched a limited-edition capsule with Dior in support of the Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project foundation. Since then, he’s been in high demand, dressing numerous high-profile celebrities, including the likes of Miley Cyrus, Rihanna and, of course, Charlize Theron. This year, he reached a new milestone when he opened his very first retail store, Magugu House, in Dunkeld, Johannesburg.
Sindiso Khumalo, LVMH Prize finalist/co-winner (2020)
Sustainable textile designer Sindiso Khumalo founded her eponymous label in 2015 after studying architecture at the University of Cape Town and later doing her Master’s in textiles futures at the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London. Khumalo gained international recognition when she was selected as one of the finalists for the 2020 LVMH Prize. However, due to the pandemic, the final of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers’ 7th edition was cancelled. Instead, organisers decided to split the prize between the 8 finalists of the year, who were chosen by the Committee of Experts during the semi-final round. For the first time, the €300 000 cash prize was equally distributed among the young designers.
With textiles at the heart of her craft, Cape Town-based Khumalo collaborates with NGOs and small workshops in South Africa and Burkina Faso to produce exclusive handwoven and hand-embroidered textiles for her fashion lines. Her keen interest in sustainability has seen her speak on the topic at the United Nations and the European Development Forum, to name a few.
Lukhanyo Mdingi, co-winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize (2021)
Lukhanyo Mdingi, famous for his innovative designs that blend traditional South African craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, received global recognition when he won the prestigious Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2021 at the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. Hailing from the East Coast but now based in Cape Town, 32-year-old Mdingi’s work reflects his deep cultural roots and a commitment to sustainability. His career took a significant leap when he walked away with the Special Prize in 2021, which included a cash prize and a year’s mentorship. As a result of the exceptional talent that year, the jury decided to award the Karl Lagerfeld Prize to three designers instead of just one, with each receiving €150 000 cash and mentorship by the LVMH Group.
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After studying fashion design at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology in Cape Town, Mdingi established his brand in 2015, which quickly gained traction thanks to its unique silhouettes and intricate textures, often inspired by the landscapes and heritage of South Africa. He also places great importance on sustainability, having taken part in the Ethical Fashion Initiative’s inaugural accelerator programme in 2020. Last year, he hit another jackpot when he won the prestigious 2023 Amiri Prize, receiving another US$100,000 cash prize and a year-long mentorship programme to help expand his business in the northern hemisphere.
