Classic dressing emerged as a trending theme at the recently concluded Milan Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2026 season, where Ajabeng, Kente Gentlemen and Subwae presented their latest collections. Designer fashion can often feel intimidating, yet these garments — though intended for different audiences — offered a welcoming familiarity. Whether through Subwae’s streetwear or Ajabeng’s more formal ensembles, the designers communicated a way of dressing that speaks both to the moment and the future, showcasing the evolving style and layered complexities of contemporary African fashion.
Ajabeng
Ajabeng collections often feel confident and mature, never chasing fast seasonal trends. The slow-fashion brand continues to pursue this vision with precision, underpinned by a consistent design language. Its latest collection — first unveiled at Lagos Fashion Week — is expressed through clever styling hacks. It is smart yet not overly formal. For example, double-layered shirts and standing collars evoke a casual, slightly rebellious energy.
Followers of the Ghanaian brand will also appreciate its consistency, from sumptuously rich colour palettes to the classic silhouettes inspired by the ’60s and. Clean lines, directional tailoring and logo-free garments are among the key characteristics that have made the brand a favourite among artists and musicians who value impactful yet minimalist style.
Kente Gentlemen
Presented as a short film, Kente Gentlemen’s showcase explores themes of slowness and connection. Shot in a remote forest in the Bouaké region of Côte d’Ivoire, the film follows a single character navigating their path within a picture-perfect bubble — an escapist counterpoint to an increasingly unstable world. It is a reminder that fashion exists within a broader context.
The collection reimagines traditionally woven fabrics as modern garments imbued with storytelling, poetry and cultural celebration. Striped suits, vibrant hues and richly textured fabrics all form part of the narrative. These are clothes that deliver immediate visual impact through intricate weaving and dyeing techniques, while also offering the enduring value of artisanal craftsmanship.
Subwae Studios
Titled Keteke, Subwae’s latest collection draws inspiration from a Ghanaian film of the same name, which follows a couple expecting their first child who dramatically miss a train to the city where they plan to give birth. The word keteke also means “train” in the indigenous Ghanaian language of Akan. Naturally, the collection becomes a study of movement from both a physical and emotional perspective.
“I started developing the collection in April,” reveals the designer and founder of the brand, Christopher Akpo. The collection consists of “imperfect”, industrial-leaning streetwear pieces, ranging from checkered shorts to matching athleisure sets and bold-coloured caps.
The brand’s authentic and carefree approach to style and youth culture has made it one of Ghana’s most influential streetwear labels, appealing to audiences beyond its region. Ghana’s fashion industry also has a strong culture of recycling and repurposing garments sourced from second-hand markets.
“Our approach to sustainability is driven by culture and long-term impact,” Christopher explains via email. “[…] we’ve learned to value what already exists and find creative ways to reimagine it.”
