There’s an unspoken consensus worth saying out loud: Black skin, like all skin, does, in fact, crack. The idea that Black skin is somehow immune to ageing shifts when Black women realise that, while many are blessed with the genes that help them retain a youthful appearance, their skin still needs to be cared for with intention.
Still, there is something to the phrase “Black don’t crack”. The magic isn’t only in the biological makeup of Black skin. It also lies in the rituals African women have practised for generations and passed down over time – traditions that have helped shape the association between Black skin and youthfulness.
Scroll through social media today, and you’d be forgiven for thinking a good skincare routine requires a chemical or two and upwards of 10 different products. The women of generations past took a simpler route. Their routines revolved around addressing particular needs rather than ticking off products on a list.
There was steaming and dry scrubbing. Moisturising was non-negotiable (God forbid your mama found you looking “ashy” in public). Clay was used as a supplement to sun protection and, perhaps most importantly, there was the practice of taking your time.
Many of these rituals have roots in long-standing traditions. While some of their benefits are supported by research, others remain grounded largely in cultural practice and practitioner testimony.
Steaming
Ukugquma is as simple as it sounds. You sit or kneel over hot herbal water, with a blanket draped around you to trap the steam.
Its roots run deeper than beauty. In a study of traditional health practitioners in Johannesburg, steaming, or ukufutha, was described as the first step in a cleansing process. The warmth and sweat may soften the skin, but claims about its wider skincare benefits rest largely on practitioner testimony rather than clinical trials.
Frequency: Traditionally reserved for special occasions rather than daily use.
Dry and Wet Scrubbing
When it comes to scrubbing, Sudan’s dilka sets the standard. This fragrant paste, made with turmeric, honey and other ingredients, is often applied as a massage following a dukhan smoke bath.
Closer to home, ichopho – a pumice stone – has long been used to smooth rough heels and elbows. Even the mesh bags commonly used to package oranges have sometimes been repurposed as body scrubbers.
The benefit of exfoliation is straightforward: removing dead skin cells can leave the skin feeling smoother. Restraint matters, though. Over-exfoliation can damage the skin barrier and worsen dark marks.
Frequency: Weekly for the body, and much more gently for the face.
Moisturising
Across West Africa, shea butter has earned the name “women’s gold”. In parts of Burkina Faso and Benin, the shea tree is considered sacred, and women traditionally play a central role in harvesting its fruit.
Mama’s crusade against ashy skin, it turns out, has some science on its side. A review in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology found that lower ceramide levels in Black skin have been reported consistently across studies, potentially contributing to dryness. The review also notes that dryness can be more visible on darker skin, helping explain why moisturising has long been an important part of many skincare routines. Shea butter’s fatty acids, meanwhile, can help support the skin barrier.
Frequency: Daily, ideally straight after bathing.
Clay as a Sunscreen “Supplement”
Ibomvu, or red clay, is one of KwaZulu-Natal’s best-known traditional sun-protection practices. Durban’s Mavis Khuzwayo told the Cape Argus that she wears it on her face while gardening to protect her skin from the sun and heat.
Researchers at the University of KwaZulu-Natal have also investigated clay’s sun-protection properties. As reported by Daily Maverick, their estimates put the SPF of white clay at 3.6 and red clay at 4, with some UVA protection from both. The takeaway is clear: clay may offer limited protection, but it is a supplement, not a substitute for properly tested sunscreen.
Frequency: If you use clay outdoors, pair it with a broad-spectrum sunscreen rather than relying on clay alone for protection.
Taking Your Time
This is the ritual beneath all the others. In Morocco, neighbours have traditionally gathered at the hammam weekly to wash, socialise, and strengthen community bonds. Rushing may cost you more than you think. In a study of healthy women, a stressful interview raised cortisol levels and slowed the skin barrier’s recovery. A single night without sleep had a similar effect.
Frequency: Every time. Make space for your routine rather than rushing through it.
So, before investing in a routine built around every product that #SkinTok hypes up, start where generations of women started: with intention, consistency, and a little patience. Taking your time costs nothing – and it will never go out of style.
