Strauss & Co ushers in moments of radiance this May with two landmark sales of fine jewellery and gold jewellery. The spotlight falls on The Grand Edition – a live virtual auction on 26 May 2025 – where standout pieces include a surprise capsule collection by acclaimed British-Ghanaian independent experimental jewellery artist and designer Emefa Cole. She was appointed the first curator of diaspora jewellery at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum in 2022, with her pieces now part of the institution’s permanent collection alongside work by renowned designers like Peter Chang.
This is the first time Emefa’s work appears at auction in South Africa – and the timing couldn’t be more fitting. Hot off the global stage, her sculptural works were recently seen on Grammy Award-winning artist Lauryn Hill at the 2025 Met Gala, where the singer debuted as a guest of co-chair Pharrell Williams.
Strauss & Co’s Grand Edition presents a coveted collection of her designs, which combine artistic vision with elemental storytelling. Known for her tactile, architectural style inspired by geological processes and memories of her Ghanaian childhood, Emefa crafts wearable art using 100 per cent recycled metals and ethically sourced stones from African gem cutters. Her output results in rippling gold cuffs, cratered rings and subtly commanding accessories. Each piece in the collection is a testament to her reverence for sustainability and cultural heritage.
Her lifelong passion began in childhood, stringing Job’s tears – the lustrous seeds of tall grasses – into necklaces and choosing her first fine piece: a pair of gold studs with stones red as pigeon’s blood. Attracted to the gleam of precious metals and the quiet power of adornment, she was also captivated by folkloric tales from her native Ghana – stories of gold surfacing after tropical rains – a mythology that continues to shape her artistic vision. Also featured in The Grand Edition are standout lots for collectors of grand jewels and precious stones. Highlights include:
- A 5.73ct cushion-cut diamond ring with 2.80ct of trillion-cut diamonds, set in yellow gold (6.90 grams).
- A 22k yellow gold jewellery box by SA Goldware (c. 1950s), estimated at R5-6 million – a sleek modernist treasure chest.
- A 2.85ct square-cut emerald ring framed by 2.28ct of round brilliant-cut diamonds in a multitier cluster setting (estimate R60 000 to R90 000).
- A vivid yellow emerald-cut loose diamond, GIA-graded, estimated at R6 to 8 million – a collector’s prize.
With gold as the theme of both sales, it warrants some historical reflection. Between the grandeur of cut gemstones and the glow of gold lies a story that begins in the stars. Gold, forged in the cataclysmic death of stars, arrived on Earth in meteorites over 4 billion years ago. Its discovery beneath the soil of what would become Johannesburg’s Witwatersrand in 1886 sparked one of the most significant gold rushes in modern history, transforming a landscape and shaping a city’s identity – Egoli, the City of Gold.
Gold is a paradox: timeless and current, universal and deeply personal. Its rarity gives it status; its warmth gives it soul. Across centuries and continents, it has adorned kings, sanctified rituals, and remained the ultimate expression of value. To this day, it is woven into traditions of love, wealth and self-expression – from heirloom bangles to contemporary sculpture.
Complementing the live Grand Edition is a second, equally compelling sale that celebrates gold in its elemental glory.
A parallel offering: Africa Gold Edition
Running alongside the live auction is a timed online sale showcasing gold in all its historic and contemporary expressions. Here, gold takes centre stage – not as a backdrop for diamonds, but as the material of majesty. Lots include necklaces, rings, bracelets and more.
Among the standout lots:
- A 31.7g 18k yellow gold cuff, textured with cross-hatching and framed in polished borders (estimate R40 000 to R50 000).
- A 47.6g vintage bracelet adorned with four engraved fob seals, a tube-set engraved amethyst charm, a teardrop carnelian charm, and a 1963 South African two rand gold coin (estimate R40 000 to R60 000).
- A 56g pavé diamond necklace, set with 511 brilliant stones on gold infinity links (estimate R100 000 to R120 000).
These pieces do more than gleam – they honour Africa’s rich metallurgical history, where gold has long been a symbol of spiritual and material wealth. From ceremonial adornments to personal talismans, gold is embedded in the continent’s cultural fabric.
While Africa Gold Edition spotlights gold in its purest form, The Grand Edition explores gold’s role as a canvas for spectacular gemstones – diamonds, tanzanite, pearls, sapphires, and rubies – each with its own storied past. These jewels and their use continue to evolve with cultural traditions, such as exchanging wedding rings.
Whether shaped into a statement necklace or encasing a rare diamond, gold is the elemental thread that connects Africa Gold Edition and The Grand Edition.
Strauss & Co invites collectors and connoisseurs to discover pieces that shine with artistic vision and intrinsic value. From Egoli to the global stage, these two sales – one rooted in heritage, the other elevated by haute luxury – honour the past, celebrate the present, and inspire the future of jewellery. They offer a rare glimpse into gold’s power to transform, endure, and captivate in every era, and on every wrist, neck, and finger.
