Following last season’s impressive collection which she showcased in Milan with the support of Dolce & Gabbana, the rising London–based Ethiopian designer Feben looks to the highs and lows of life and the ability to transform hardship into strength for her latest SS25 collection.
Focussing on her multi–continental upbringing, innovative fabrics and the spirit of collaboration that drives her, this season is brought to life through a diverse collection of formal and occasion pieces. Feben also draws from the life of Antonia Singla, a flamenco dancer from Spain who is renowned for her influence in the genre despite her hearing disability. The theme also seemed to be inspired by her own life and the struggles she endured growing up as a refugee.
Feben channels these personal experiences of displacement using it as a superpower to inform her unique perspective. Armour and vulnerability are two central themes that the designer keeps referencing in her work, to create garments inspired by storytelling and that explore identity in its various forms. This collection celebrates womanhood and movement. There was a series of bodycon fringed dresses meant to move with the expressive rhythm of music and dance. Ruched pieces and reversed sequin spoke to the designer’s appreciation for innovative textiles and fabric manipulation using techniques she dreamt up as a fashion student while the mermaid skirts and drop–shoulder necklines were crafted to proudly accentuate the body, showing the vulnerability that comes with the unpredictable realities of life.
In between the black and white charming tea dresses, there are also moments of deliberate quirkiness. This came through in some of the styling including a bright yellow tube dress which was worn with a purple boa. She also features metaphors for resilience throughout the collection. For example, by combining two different fabrics with different colours and textures on select garments like a sleeveless dark sandy top worn with matching slit trousers, to create cutouts that evoke the effect of renewal and regeneration. Instead of showing skin, these cutouts reveal another layer of fabric underneath. Overall, the outfits were composed of traditional silhouettes, without adornment to emphasise each look. Some examples include matching co–ords, knee–length skirts with high slits, and elevated separates like a striped pink shirt with pleats.
Then came two revealing net dresses, one in black and the other in a fiery red colour and orange tassels as if to symbolise the warmth of a burning fire. These particular dresses were made in collaboration with Ghanaian artisans while a stripy coat dress with an exaggerated number of fringes displayed the designer’s artisanal skills. Gazing at the lineup, it’s clear that this is fashion to break boundaries in.
