Garnets are a diverse group of closely related minerals known for producing gemstones in nearly every colour. While all garnets share a similar crystal structure, their chemical compositions vary, leading to over 20 distinct categories. Among the most notable types are demantoid, a rare green garnet with a unique horsetail inclusion; spessartine (or spessartite), an orange variety often found in Africa and Brazil; and rhodolite, having a rich purple-red hue. Some garnets can even display a colour-change effect, like the rare alexandrite, which shifts from green in daylight to red under incandescent light.
The wine-coloured garnets discovered worldwide in metamorphic rocks (meaning rocks altered by heat and pressure) are arguably the best known. These stones are named after the Latin for pomegranates because they resemble the seeds of the fruit. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) confirms they also come in greens, oranges, pinkish oranges, deeply saturated purplish reds, and even some blues.
According to Gem Magic by Brenda Knight, red garnets are the love stones, while green garnets are the real healers, offering protection to the chakras.
Tsavorite is a rare stone that Harry Platt of Tiffany & Co. reportedly hailed as the “Rolls Royce of the Green” and set to rival all other shades of the green palette. It was named for its area of discovery – the Tsavo Game Reserve in Kenya – and is featured in Fabergé’s Colours of Love collection. The French House notes the stone’s symbolism associated with benevolence, vitality, prosperity, vigour, and compassion.
The rarer the stone’s colour, the more valuable it is. This was proved at a recent Christie’s auction when a signed Van Cleef & Arpels multi-gem cocktail ring featuring an oval-shaped spessartine mandarin garnet sold for eight times its low estimate. Named for its vivid orange hue, the mandarin garnet was first discovered in Namibia in the early 1990s.
Pomellato’s Nudo and Iconica collections showcase garnets in designs that emphasise the gemstone’s vibrant colour and distinctive cuts. The Nudo collection, renowned for its minimalist design, features a ‘nude’ stone in various colours and sizes, highlighting the beauty of the garnet. In contrast, the Iconica collection celebrates Pomellato’s goldsmith heritage with bold and elegant designs. The deep red shade of the pyrope garnet variety is accentuated through thoughtful design and expert cutting techniques.
Moraglione masterfully incorporates vibrant, coloured gemstones into its jewellery, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship and a keen eye for detail. Its Grace collection incorporates semiprecious stones, such as citrine and garnet, designed to enhance their beauty and embody timeless elegance.
Le Vian, a family-owned jewellery company with roots tracing back to the 15th century, uses the Pomegranate Garnet in its collections. In 1746, they were entrusted to safeguard jewels belonging to Nadir Shah, one of Persia’s most powerful rulers, earning themselves a reputation as “guardians of the jewels”. These included the renowned Koh-i-Noor diamond. Le Vian will be among the specialists exhibiting their creations at Haute Jewels Geneva this year.
Varsha Diamonds, founded by Pankaj Mehta, specialises in “making magic happen every day.” Originally established as a manufacturer and distributor of natural loose diamonds, the company has expanded into jewellery, anticipating continued interest in coloured gemstones in 2025. Its Color Candy collection includes garnets and is pitched at an accessible price to attract younger buyers. Varsha Diamonds’ inventory is conflict-free, ethically sourced, and certified through the Kimberley Process.
