On the hour-long drive from Chief Dawid Stuurman International Airport in Gqeberha to the Lalibela Game Reserve turnoff, returning to the Eastern Cape on assignment for a journalist who has roots in the Transkei always feels like coming home. I was to spend time shadowing wildlife photographer and Panerai Friend of the Brand, Marlon du Toit, exploring an unfamiliar environment for him. I hoped the destination would work its magic on my colleagues. Three game drives later, “the wildlife didn’t disappoint”, was Marlon’s parting shot. The highlight? A spine-tingling growl that split the air as a grumpy lioness glared at us – just metres from our game-viewing vehicle – crouched low and ready to pounce.
Lalibela Game Reserve may not be as widely recognised for eco-tourism as some of the more iconic parks in South Africa, but it’s a hidden treasure for those in the know. I was also happy to learn that it is no longer a hunting concession. As CEO of Lalibela Game Reserve for the past year and a half, Johann Lombard explains that many visitors, including seasoned safari-goers, arrive with scepticism, often comparing Lalibela to the more famous Kruger National Park. However, once they’ve experienced it, the feedback is glowing. “A friend who leads photographic safaris all over Africa said ours was the best he’s ever been on,” Johann shares. “Here, there is a choice, volume. Unlike places where you’re lucky to glimpse a leopard behind a bush, you can see the full animal at Lalibela and capture their adaptation to nature even in our infamous 100km winds. That’s rare.”
Essential to the reserve’s appeal is the world-class guiding team. “We’re not just looking for qualified guides,” Johann continues, “We want people who can engage on an intellectual level because our guests will fact-check you in a blink. Guides here need to be more than just drivers; they need life skills, knowledge, and the ability to interpret what they see.” The guides also play a crucial role in storytelling, offering personal insights into the Albany biome and local Bushman paintings.
We’ve cleared 80 percent of the invasive wattle trees and we’re restoring old farmlands.
While the reserve doesn’t have the sheer expansiveness of the Kruger or Sabi Sands, it has a unique allure. “We don’t have the massive landscapes yet – we’re still rewilding and growing. But that’s part of the charm,” says Johann. “We’ve cleared 80 percent of the invasive wattle trees and we’re restoring old farmlands. It’s a process that can take anywhere from five to 300 years. Already there are places on the reserve where, if you block out the sound of the occasional truck, you’d think you were in the Serengeti.”
Rewilding efforts include the reintroduction of species like Cape vultures in collaboration with Vulpro, and the possibility of bringing in others like Egyptian and lappet-faced vultures. As I listened, I couldn’t help but marvel at the transformation already in progress. The slow return of indigenous plants and the soaring flight of the Knysna turaco made it clear – Lalibela wasn’t just another reserve, it was a place of revival. “It’s beautiful here, and the birdlife is exquisite,” Johann adds, emphasising that while the reserve may be just down the road from Gqeberha, it feels like a world away.
Lalibela is not only visually stunning but also rich in history, culture, and conservation. Staying here is about being immersed in nature, learning from passionate individuals, and enjoying quiet moments of awe. The management team aims to create exclusive experiences for guests, allowing them to spend extended periods with animals without rushing off. There is a two-vehicle limit per sighting, and the walking safaris add to the thrill of authentic game viewing.
Plans for the future include equipping safari vehicles for photographers, drawing inspiration from Tanzania and Kenya where vehicles are outfitted with charging stations and other equipment to enhance the guest experience.
The lodges are beautifully appointed, catering to different needs and tastes, from Tree Tops Safari Lodge – a tented camp with double-insulated canvas to combat the cold – to Inzolo which is tucked away in a valley for a more secluded, intimate experience.
Visitors leave with more than photos; they take home a profound connection to nature and a greater understanding of the reserve’s conservation goals. Guests can also contribute to conservation work and local community upliftment. Lalibela continues with its tireless effort of the anti-poaching teams and K9 dog units, ever alert to ensure the reserve’s and the wildlife’s safety.
Unsurprisingly, my travelling companions loved every minute of the jam-packed visit. As we reluctantly said our goodbyes, we knew we were leaving with a renewed connection to nature and a deep respect for the investment into protecting this hidden gem of the Eastern Cape.
