In a landscape famous for its abundance of water, it’s curious how few people travel to Botswana in the wet season.
After all, this is a country where pula – ‘rain’ in Setswana – is life; a resource so valuable that even the national currency is named after it. Yet, when the rains begin to fall over the Okavango Delta, tourists seem to disappear.
Part of the reason is the heat.
As the mercury climbs through October and November, locals seek shade. But as the blue-sky days of winter – when the annual floods transform the Delta into the world’s largest inland wetland – give way to the afternoon thunderstorms of summer, the landscape bursts back to life. Botswana’s secret season has arrived. And there are few better places to discover it than at one of the newest additions to the Okavango Delta.
Monachira Camp: A Return to the Wild
Monachira Camp – intimate, unfenced, and deeply rooted in the landscape – is the latest addition to Machaba Safaris’ portfolio of camps pitched across Botswana and Zimbabwe.
Founded in 2012, Machaba Safaris aims to rekindle the adventure of classic safari experiences, focusing on luxurious canvas tents, intimate communal spaces, and intuitive guiding rather than starchitect design or indulgence that distract from nature. There’s no shortage of creature comforts – like lazing in Monachira’s swimming pool while gazing out across the grasslands – but the true luxury lies in the immersion in one of Africa’s natural treasures.
“Monachira is a return to the wild,” says Alistair Rankin, Co-Founder of Machaba Safaris. “It offers all the comforts of a luxury safari, while staying true to our ethos of sustainable tourism that benefits local communities and protects Africa’s most treasured landscapes.”
Opened in May with just 10 tented suites pitched either side of the spacious shared lounge and dining area, Monachira Camp offers unforgettable views from every vantage point.
Grasslands give way to riverine forest, and the Monachira Channel lies a short walk from the playful ‘beach bar’ set up for sunset. It’s a camp where you’ll feel the heat of the soil and the wildness of the landscape.
Summer Life in the Delta
Though most travellers visit during the peak of the floods (May to August), the Delta reveals a completely new character in summer (December to February).
The rains clear winter’s dust and green shoots emerge from the sandy soils.
“Summer here is incredible,” says Thabo Legwatagwata, my guide at Monachira. “Flowers bloom, and there are so many different kinds of butterflies – especially along the channels. Also, with lower water levels, there’s more land, so you can cover more ground on nature walks and game drives.”
With summer’s new grass also comes an abundance of young antelope.
“The African wild dogs time their pup-rearing for when the impala lambs are around, so summer is a great time to see young dogs,” adds Thabo. “All of our predators – leopard, wild dogs, hyena, lion – are more active when there are so many young antelope around.”
A Birdwatcher’s Paradise
It’s a season of plenty. Insects abound, and birds take full advantage of the glut.
Summer is prime time for twitchers, as the first migrant bird species fill the humid air with song.
The woodland kingfisher, carmine bee-eaters, and a variety of raptors provide beautiful melody and vibrant spectacle, alongside a roster of special sightings: coppery-tailed coucal, brown firefinch, slaty egret, greater swamp warbler, and chirping cisticola. Binoculars are essential, particularly from the rooftop deck of a motorboat drifting along the Monachira channel.
Unlike many Delta lodges, Monachira Camp offers year-round water access, with daily boat excursions meandering upstream through papyrus-lined channels, or cruising downstream to the famous Xobega heronry.
Against the soundtrack of hippos chortling across the reeds, hundreds of marabou and yellow-billed storks clatter and clash for space on the treetops while chicks chatter for food. Avid birders will delight in spotting pink-backed pelicans that inhabit the swamps of southern Africa.
Travel Smarts: Fewer Crowds, Lower Costs
Beyond the lush landscapes, there’s another good reason to visit the Okavango Delta in the green season: it’s a whole lot cheaper.
Travel during the peak season “comes at a significant cost, with the same lodges and camps sometimes costing as much as 50 per cent more,” says Justin Chapman, Africa Safari Expert at specialist tour operator Go2Africa.
When the pula falls, so do the crowds and the prices, and one of Africa’s most exclusive safari destinations suddenly becomes more accessible. Perhaps that’s why Botswana’s green season remains one of Southern Africa’s best-kept secrets.
GETTING THERE
- Flights: Airlink offers direct flights from Cape Town and Johannesburg to Maun. Monachira Camp is a further 25-minute flight by light aircraft.
- Visas: No visa is required for South African passport holders.
- Malaria: The Okavango Delta is a low-risk area. Consult your travel doctor before departure.
- Book: Via machabasafaris.com or your preferred agent.
