Somewhere past the village of Sangwali, I have to remind myself I’m still in Namibia. Except here, there are no rolling sand dunes. No sunbaked plains of shattered rock. No thirsty scrubland dotted with springbok. Instead, I find myself gazing at towering knobthorn trees and sausage trees pregnant with fruit. And is that a baobab beyond? The Zambezi Region, once known as the Caprivi Strip, is full of surprises.
As our safari vehicle trundles south along bumpy sand roads, the disconnect hits home. Watery channels appear. Herds of impala hide in the turpentine grass, and elephants materialise from the thickets. As we pull to a halt at Nkasa Linyanti, hippos grunt and chortle in the distance. Welcome to Namibia’s Okavango.
I’d arrived in darkness, but dawn broke to reveal the quiet beauty of Nkasa Rupara National Park, a 32 000-hectare reserve of grasslands, reed-lined channels, riverine woodland, and wildlife-rich islands. When the annual floodwaters arrive from Angola in winter, months after the rains have fallen upstream, it looks for all the world like the more famous delta across the border.
Namibia’s Unexpected Wetlands
This is one of Namibia’s most important yet little-known wetland ecosystems, and the setting for one of my favourite new camps in southern Africa.
The newest camp from conservation-led safari company Natural Selection, Nkasa Linyanti sits entirely unfenced on a private concession on Nkasa Island, one of two large islands in the park. From my under-canvas suite – there are only six – views sweep south across the grasslands towards the Linyanti River. Warthogs run riot beneath my private deck while elephants wander across the horizon. At night, the canvas walls all but rumble with the roar of lions.
The design draws subtly on local aesthetics, from fish traps to rugs of natural fibres. Though it’s barely a few months old, the camp already feels settled in the landscape. Here you’ll find everything you need and nothing you don’t. In a world of maximalist lodges offering the last word in creature comforts, this is a welcome departure. There’s Wi-Fi if you must, but rather settle at the writing desk, where a bird book awaits. Better yet, take a seat outside and watch the grasslands for signs of life. Or follow the short sandy path to the communal area, where you can settle into the lounge with a G&T or gather at the fireside to hear the story of how this camp came to be.
Because Nkasa Linyanti is a prime example of how tourism can support conservation at scale.
Where Conservation Comes First
Nkasa Rupara may be a relatively small park, but it’s a keystone of the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, a vast conservation landscape linking Namibia, Botswana, Angola, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. It’s a vital corridor for buffalo and elephant, and the hope is that the ancient migration routes into Angola will one day be revived. In a region where wildlife needs space to follow water, food, and seasonal grazing, unfenced landscapes like these are invaluable.
“For decades I’ve gazed longingly across the Linyanti River from Botswana, eyes fixed on Nkasa Rupara National Park,” says Colin Bell, co-founder of Natural Selection. “Each glimpse stirred something in me, especially after memorable flights over Nkasa Island revealed its breathtaking beauty: lush islands, untouched waterways, and vast open savannahs teeming with wildlife. It’s a place that feels like Namibia’s answer to the Okavango Delta, equally wild and utterly captivating.”
The Cook family, Natural Selection’s partners in the camp, were similarly taken with the landscape, although it took some vision to bring this memorable property to life. “When we first came here, there was almost nothing in the way of wildlife,” says Cate Cook, daughter of owners Brett and Chantelle. “On my first trip, I wrote in my journal, ‘Why are we here?’”
That was pre-pandemic, but today the landscape has transformed. Granting a formal concession has helped keep poachers at bay, and the opportunity for employment – much of the camp staff is drawn from Sangwali village and the broader Zambezi Region – is helping local communities view wildlife as a source of sustainable income, not meat for the pot. The camp also supports the work of national park wardens by supplying them with a vehicle, a boat, and fuel for patrols.
Wildlife Returns
And the result is noticeable. Elephants in abundance. Herds of impala on the plains. Red lechwe splashing in the shallows. When the rains bring fresh grass, thousand-strong herds of buffalo arrive. And in their wake, lions. On a single game drive, we saw 18 lions, and they left their prints in camp almost every night of my stay. Birding is another drawcard, with more than 430 species recorded in the park.
“There has been no restocking, no bringing in animals,” says Cate. “It’s purely because the camp is here that these animals have moved back into the area.”
And that’s the real story here.
Nkasa Linyanti is as charming a camp as you could ask for, with unique access to a wild and remote corner of Namibia. But it’s the conservation success beyond the suites that makes this undiscovered corner of the country worth a visit. Get there before it gets too busy.
Getting there
- Flights: Airlink operates daily flights from Johannesburg to Kasane, followed by a four-hour road transfer to the camp. Alternatively, fly from Windhoek to Katima Mulilo, then drive approximately 3.5 hours by vehicle.
- Visa: South African passport holders do not require a visa.
- Health: Nkasa Rupara National Park is a low-risk malaria area. Consult your travel doctor before departure.
- Book: Via Natural Selection or your preferred travel agent.
