Normally, being the food capital of South Africa (and even the world, according to Conde Nast Traveller), fine dining restaurant franchises usually start in Cape Town before migrating to Joburg. Luke Dale Roberts brought The Potluck Club – which is now at the gorgeous Peech Hotel in Melrose – and Quion Rock brought the Q-Bar to Rosebank. However, after successfully launching Marble in Joburg in 2016, renowned chef David Higgs and his founding partner, Gary Kyriaou, decided to open a sister restaurant in Cape Town this year.
My Capetonian friends are quite snooty about what they dine, and so for my birthday this year, I decided on lunch at Marble Cape Town to check out how the culinary migration would pan out. I’d heard great reviews about it but wanted to find out for myself and let me tell you, it exceeded our expectations. Like most of us, I booked through Dineplan and it was seamless. There were less than eight of us so I could book directly through the app, for bookings exceeding eight people then you have to email the restaurant directly. Honestly, I don’t know how we managed before Dineplan because I’m all for online booking without having to be on hold while listening to corny music and then attempting to spell my name “L for love, E for easy” over loud music, or having to jump through hoops to cancel a reservation. But I digress…
Gary and David are part of the group behind acclaimed establishments like Saint, Zioux, and The Pantry, a luxury convenience store in Joburg’s Rosebank. Located on the top floor of the Union Castle House, the restaurant accommodates 220 guests. “One of the things we are known for is the experience that we give, which starts with the venue and where we are,” said David ahead of the launch. I must agree, the sunsets at Marble in Joburg are fabulous. With over 100 wines from estates across South Africa and beyond, Marble’s wine list is carefully curated by group wine director, Wikus Human and head sommelier Jan-Hendrik Venter.
And so, after getting a little lost finding the glass elevator up to the sweeping views of the Cape Town harbour, I stepped into Marble Cape Town for a lunch filled with friends, love, and great food…
Sight: A Visual Feast
Designed and curated by interior director Irene Kyriacou in collaboration with Redecco, the interiors are inspired by Cape Town’s natural elements – wind, sea, and earth. Expansive floor-to-ceiling glass facades offer stunning 360° views of the city. I was in Cape Town for the art fair, and art plays a key role in the Marble brand, with custom pieces reflecting the region’s landscapes and heritage. The Cape Town location showcases works by Grid, Krisjan Rossouw, and Michael Beckurts, each celebrating the city’s unique beauty. The open-fire cooking method is central to the design, with the grand wood-fired grill imported from Grill Works in Michigan acting as the focal point.
Sound: Music in The Air
The mood at Marble is set by its carefully curated playlist, the music blends seamlessly with the gentle hum of conversation, the clink of glasses, and the unmistakable sounds of the kitchen. Music being a focal point is unsurprising considering that Higgs is one of the masterminds behind The Luxurious Marble Circus – which debuted in October 2024 – an event marrying fine dining with music. But it’s not just the music that is sonically pleasing; the sizzling on the wood-fired grill, the soft crackle of flames, and the rhythmic chopping of ingredients create a dynamic and engaging soundtrack that enhances the atmosphere.
Smell: Alluring Aromas
But if an olfactory experience is what you’re after, then the divine smells coming from the kitchen will have you at hello. As we sat down to our meal, the smoky scent of the open fire was unmistakable, mingling with the rich notes of the food being prepared. Each dish that arrived at the table carried with it a distinct fragrance – from the grilled meats to the beautifully balanced wines – all enhancing the sensory journey. The smells were a prelude to the flavours that were to come, preparing our senses for what would prove to be an unforgettable meal.
Taste: A Symphony of Flavours
We had the pleasure of indulging in a variety of exceptional dishes. I had the Wood-fired Linefish, served with peas and bacon, burnt leeks, seaweed butter, and roasted fish bone sauce, which was delicate and delightfully smoky. The Mushroom Paella, rich with thyme and garlic stewed mushrooms, charred peppers, and artichokes, offered a delicious vegetarian alternative. The Plate of Lamb Favourites, which included a grilled lamb cutlet, anchovy roasted shoulder, salted lamb rib, ‘slaphakskeentjies,’ and Marble fries, was a true feast. By the way, the tomato sauce (ketchup) is at the bottom of the Marble fries, it took us a while to figure it out. My suggestion for dessert is the Aperol Spritz – made with Aperol jelly, strawberry and hibiscus sorbet, compressed strawberries, poached peach and Aperol spritz foam.
David and his team’s expertise is evident in every plate served at Marble. They have truly mastered the art of cooking with fire, and the result is a menu that not only celebrates South African cuisine but also elevates it to new heights. Marble is one of 500 restaurants in SA where you can redeem a Dineplan gift voucher, so if you want to give someone a special experience, this is it.
