In the rarefied world of fine jewellery, certain words have lost their lustre. “Vintage” is one of them — a term so overused it has become a catch-all for anything pre-owned. For its latest offering, Strauss & Co is inviting collectors to expand their lexicon. Uncovered Classics, a timed online auction running from 6–26 March 2026, is a carefully curated sale that champions the concepts of archive, artistry, and the deeply personal act of wearing a story.
The sale is a masterclass in curation, divided into three stylistic movements. Timeless presents the enduring lexicon of jewellery design: the unbroken circle of eternity bands, the pristine sparkle of classic diamond solitaires, and the reassuring weight of a gold chain. Nouveau ventures into more experimental territory, celebrating asymmetry, the lustre of enamel, and the whimsy of nature with organic forms and sculptural insect motifs. Finally, Nostalgia tugs at the heartstrings, offering pieces that feel plucked from a family heirloom chest — from intricate Victorian necklaces to jewels inspired by the grandeur of antiquity.
“Archive is a word that resonates today,” explains Kim Goeller, Jewellery Specialist at Strauss & Co. “It suggests something with provenance and character, but also something relevant now. Many of these pieces were made at a bench by hand. You can see the maker’s decisions in the metal.”
The lots on offer are a testament to that philosophy. A magnificent Art Deco double-clip diamond brooch (estimate R80 000–100 000) is a marvel of early 20th-century engineering, set with 126 old European-cut diamonds. Its ability to separate into two individual clips speaks to an era that prized versatility as much as glamour. Meanwhile, a delicate diamond bow brooch (estimate R40 000–60 000) captures the romance of a bygone age. Its 429 rose-cut diamonds are set with meticulous milgrain edging, culminating in articulated tassels that tremble with movement. “You simply don’t see that level of detailed, handmade articulation in contemporary mass production,” Kim notes.
Pearls, perennial favourites on red carpets from Cannes to the Mother City, feature prominently. A diamond and pearl necklace (estimate R50 000–70 000) centres on a paisley-motif pendant, its cool diamonds softened by a chain of interlinking round pearls, balancing formal structure with a liquid elegance.
There is also a robust nod to the enduring power of gold, buoyed by current bullion prices. Two substantial imperial gold chains in 18k yellow gold (estimate R210 000–230 000) offer a combined weight of over 100 grams, while an Italian-made suite of honeycomb-link choker and bracelet (estimate R360 000–400 000) is a sculptural statement of pure luxury.
Yet the soul of Uncovered Classics lies in its revivalist and symbolic jewels. A spider jadeite pendant (estimate R15 000–30 000) weaves a web of intrigue, its carved jadeite ring embracing an oval cabochon opal that forms the spider’s abdomen. It is a piece that doubles its appeal through both craftsmanship and the resurgence of insect motifs in contemporary fashion. Egyptian revival scarabs and bee motifs further underscore the sale’s deep engagement with history.
In a secondary market often driven by the cold calculus of the melting pot, this sale stands as a defiant celebration of preservation. “A lot of heavy gold pieces at auction are purchased by dealers to refine,” Kim admits. “In this case, I can’t imagine someone melting an Egyptian scarab or a handmade articulated brooch. These are pieces to wear — and to continue their stories.”
This ethos resonates with a new generation of collectors. Increasingly conscious of sustainability, younger buyers are seeking uniqueness over ubiquity, and the personal narrative over the commercial logo. With entry-level estimates beginning at a refreshingly accessible R4 000, the sale offers a gateway to acquiring real gold and gemstone jewellery without the premium of contemporary retail mark-ups.
Ultimately, Uncovered Classics champions the idea of jewellery as autobiography. Whether it is a solid gold chain layered with inherited lockets, a charm marking a milestone, or a sculptural brooch that defies the clock, these are pieces meant to be lived in. As the worlds of fashion and art continue to embrace brooches, pearls, and sculptural gold, this sale reveals that the most enduring trend is a story, beautifully told.
Top Lots
- Lot 44: Art Deco double-clip diamond brooch. Featuring 126 old European-cut and round brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 12ct). Detachable as two clips. 16kt white gold and platinum. Estimate: R80 000–100 000.
- Lot 26: Italian choker necklace and bracelet suite. Crafted in 18kt yellow gold with flat honeycomb links. Total combined weight: 171.70 grams. Estimate: R360 000–400 000.
- Lot 1: Diamond bow brooch. Pavé-set with 429 rose-cut diamonds (approx. 2.1ct) with milgrain edging and articulated tassels. Platinum. Estimate: R40 000–60 000.
- Lot 71: Diamond and pearl necklace. Paisley pendant with 76 diamonds (approx. 1.73ct) suspended from a chain of interlinking round pearls. 18kt yellow gold. Estimate: R50 000–70 000.
- Lot 24: Two imperial gold chains. Comprising two rolo-link chains with granulation detailing. 18kt yellow gold. Total weight: 103.10 grams. Estimate: R210 000–230 000.
Auction Details
The timed online auction runs from 6–26 March 2026. Viewing is by appointment only in Johannesburg until 15 March, and thereafter in Cape Town. To browse, register, and bid, visit straussart.co.za.
