Unexpectedly, my driver kills the engine – and with it, the headlights – plunging us into the near silence of the Camdeboo bush.
The car door opens and shuts. When my eyes adjust, I find him dusted in starlight, looking up.
“See the great battle?” he asks, pointing out the constellation of Centaurus. Now a ringmaster, he illuminates the mythical characters of the ancient – but often unseen – drama that plays out every night above us. I’m mesmerised.
He returns to the vehicle as quickly as he left and continues our search for game.
It felt like the perfect metaphor. Care to look around, and you soon see the great battle on terra firma: to restore an environment once under threat.
Samara Karoo Reserve: Reviving the Camdeboo
I’d arrived at the Eastern Cape’s Samara Karoo Reserve that afternoon, already familiar with its mission to revive a long-lost wilderness. The 27 100ha property, some 50km from Graaff-Reinet, spans five biomes, encompassing streams and rivers, succulent-rich grasslands, and several peaks of the Sneeuberg mountain range in the Great Karoo.
Most recently, the enterprise has rejuvenated its Karoo Lodge, a collection of freestanding suites within its varied accommodation portfolio. This follows the earlier opening of its luxury off-grid tented camp. To my mind, that was perhaps the most sustainability-oriented option available to a responsible traveller – but I was wrong. We can attempt to shrink our carbon footprints to near invisibility, but what’s needed most is action.
The reserve – where restoration work has been underway for more than three decades – falls within the Mountain Zebra Camdeboo Protected Environment (MZCPE). This interconnected region spans 877 000ha – just over four times the size of Mauritius – where landowners agree on ecologically focused principles.
History and Heritage
“Migrations of springbok were once like torrential rivers streaming across the plains of the Camdeboo,” says amateur historian, guide, and owner of Karoo Connections, David McNaughton, when we venture into Graaff-Reinet for a look-see.
We’re standing atop Magazine Hill, where the raconteur lays out the expanse of the area’s history. This includes how one 19th century trader exported more than a million animal skins to London in a single year.
It was a boom time. When diamonds and gold were discovered inland, promotional booklets sent new prospectors via a route from Algoa Bay to Graaff-Reinet and beyond.
“If there’s one building that symbolises those golden years, it’s the Dutch Reformed Church built in 1886,” says David, referring to the Victorian Gothic landmark and its dramatic 46m central spire.
Farming intensified, too. David points out slivers of spekboom in mountain ravines, inaccessible to generations of that era’s overgrazing.
Later, the arrival of the railways and other developments removed Graaff-Reinet as the stopover of choice. The drive for urban expansion dissolved, essentially saving its iconic architecture.
In recent years, wealthy families with ties to the region have joined both preservation and conservation efforts, while attracting influential connections from around the globe.
Community and Craft
Back at Samara, I loved seeing ways I could help make a better world. The gift shop sells creations from the Graaff-Reinet Protective Workplace, a non-profit supporting some 40 adults with disabilities, as well as Blankets from Africa, a local company providing income for women in rural communities. Funds are also raised for the Vuyani Safe Haven, which supports children in need.
Sustainable Luxury at Samara
That evening, beside a roaring fire in the dining room, Executive Chef Vandeline Pienaar serves a memorable ostrich pot pie. The stemware, I note, is crafted from recycled glass by the world-renowned Ngwenya Glass factory.
Every guest receives a complimentary glass water bottle in a bid to reduce plastic on the property – and when it simply can’t be avoided, it’s made from recycled materials.
Come bedtime, I’m ensconced within a nest of blankets. On the bedside table is a note to plant the spekboom that comes with it. The words resonate with me:
“Nearly everyone takes action – as long as they’re asked,” writes Rutger Bregman in his book, Moral Ambition – Stop Wasting Your Talent and Start Making a Difference (Bloomsbury, 2025).
I leave the curtains of the sliding doors open, so when I finally turn off the lights, I can see the darkened veld outside. Everywhere are the brightest stars you can imagine.
Explore the Karoo: Top Local Experiences
- Rocco Torri Distillery – Sample tequila-style agave spirits in Cronje Street, Graaff-Reinet (daroccacraft.co.za)
- Afrikanis Rum – Visit the tasting room at 52 Somerset Street, Graaff-Reinet. (afrikanis.co.za).
- The Owl House – Explore the fantastical home of reclusive artist Helen Martins in Nieu Bethesda. (theowlhouse.co.za)
- Hester Rupert Art Museum – Discover a comprehensive collection of some of South Africa’s most famous artists. (hesterrupertartmuseum.co.za)
- Valley of Desolation – Take in panoramic views in Camdeboo National Park. (sanparks.org).
