In the ever-evolving world of fashion, few designers weave cultural reverence and contemporary luxury as seamlessly as Laduma Ngxokolo. The founder of MaXhosa by Laduma, Ngxokolo has long been celebrated for his vibrant, storytelling knits that honour his Xhosa heritage while captivating the global stage. Yet, with his latest collection, Umbulelo – a Xhosa term for “thanksgiving” – he transcends aesthetics, offering a poignant tribute to the ancestors whose guidance he credits for his brand’s meteoric rise.
Fresh off his triumphant return to the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, Ngxokolo sits down with YourLuxury Africa to unravel the spiritual and creative threads behind Umbulelo. From the symbolic use of grass and foliage – a nod to ancestral rituals – to his groundbreaking partnership with TRESemmé championing “All Hair, All You,” the designer reflects on humility, heritage, and the quiet power of gratitude.
But this is more than a story about collections; it’s about legacy in motion. Ngxokolo opens up about the MXS Kulture Fest’s mission to redefine African luxury as experiential, teases clandestine collaborations, and shares his unrelenting work ethic (“I’m in Asia, working 24/7”). For him, success isn’t just a Parisian runway – it’s the world leaning in, listening, and finally understanding that culture, in its purest form, is the ultimate luxury.
Step into the world of a visionary who stitches devotion into every seam, and discover why Laduma Ngxokolo’s journey is as much about looking back as it is about shaping the future.
YLA: Naming the collection Umbulelo has such significant meaning for you and the brand – how did you get to that point of gratitude?
LN: The inspiration behind the collection Umbulelo is a thanksgiving to the ancestors. Since we established the brand, we can only call this a blessing from our ancestors. They’ve been watching over us, protecting our relationships, and guiding us through difficult times. They’ve allowed us to navigate challenging spaces and emerge stronger. They’ve helped us achieve the seemingly impossible and have played a crucial role in positioning our brand in a way that we couldn’t have imagined on our own.
This year, we chose to dedicate it to gratitude, both for our own ancestors and for those from other cultures. We wanted to say thank you. You could have supported anyone else, but you chose to place your trust and vote with us. We recognise the many factors that influence people’s decisions to support us, and at the core of it, it’s the humility we offer. This collection honours that humility and the profound gift of support we’ve received.
YLA: You were at Paris Fashion Week – take us through your biggest moment of gratitude.
LN: My greatest moment of gratitude in all of this is being accepted, once again, to showcase on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar.
YLA: It’s been a journey – do you ever take time to reflect on your setbacks and what do you say to yourself?
LN: Yes, I do take time to reflect on both my triumphs and setbacks. When facing setbacks, I remind myself, “It is what it is!”—a way to accept the moment and keep moving forward.
YLA: Take us through your creative process when it came to highlighting hair as a creative form of expression during your show in Paris.
LN: For this collection, we explored the deep significance of grass and foliage in ancestral communication across African cultures. In certain traditions, performers wear full-grass garments during rituals and dances to connect with their ancestors. Inspired by this, we thoughtfully incorporated these elements into our collection to honour and reflect that cultural heritage.
YLA: Can you elaborate on why luxury is an individual representation of culture?
LN: I don’t expect everyone to wear the same thing or dress like mannequins because I recognise that each person has their own unique DNA, which reflects their individual identity. We are all different, and that individuality should be celebrated. I believe fashion, especially in the realm of luxury, should allow people to express their distinct personalities rather than conforming to a singular, uniform style.
YLA: What does success mean for you after a show in Paris?
LN: Success for me goes beyond just showcasing a collection in Paris. It means being recognised by the right global media outlets and being acknowledged by some of the most influential figures in the fashion industry. For us, those are the key performance indicators of success.
