Thanks to the upcoming 2025 Met Gala, themed ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’, you’re going to be hearing a lot about Dandyism. Co-chaired by Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, Colman Domingo, Pharrell Williams, and LeBron James with Vogue’s Anna Wintour, the chairperson of the Metropolitan Art and Costume Institute in New York since 1995, this year’s theme draws inspiration from Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. But beyond fashion, celebrating the style of black men, and suits being democratised for women (as seen on runways and red carpets), what exactly is Dandyism?
A brief sartorial history
Black Dandyism has a fascinating history dating back to 18th-century Europe. Initially, the term ‘dandy’ described men excessively devoted to style, grooming, and appearance. Dandies became a symbol of rebellion against the societal constructs of the time by blurring gender norms and wearing fancy custom suits. They enjoyed looking good, dining, and socialising.
During the transatlantic slave trade, servants were forced to dress up in expensive suits to match their master’s elegance and opulence. It eventually became a means of defiance and self-expression for black men and formerly enslaved people who turned fashion into a powerful tool for assimilation, reclaiming and reshaping their identity. It was a way to elevate their perception and status quo, and to challenge stereotypes. In essence, being a dandy, then and now, is more than just about appearances; it’s a mindset.
Inspired by the work of sociologist, professor, and pioneer of Pan-Africanism, W.E.B Du Bois (among others), The Harlem Renaissance began circa 1920 in New York City and had a major influence on American fashion. Considered the golden age of African-American music, literature, theatre, politics, and art, the movement helped develop black-American culture as we know it. Du Bois himself was known for his dandified style and moved in elite circles of society where appearances mattered.
The dandy Reinvented
Fuelled by colonialism, cultural exchange, and influences from American movies and music, as well as political heads who travelled abroad, the spirit of Dandyism reached African shores. Ghana’s Kwame Nkrumah is one example of a dandified politician whose style effortlessly moved between Western suits and traditional African garments.
In South Africa, we experienced it through Sophiatown, a multicultural and vibrant community, sometimes referred to as Little Harlem. Sophiatown thrived in the ’40s and early ’50s, becoming a launchpad for creatives and entertainers with impeccable style, and was championed by leading groups of the time, such as the Manhattan Brothers.
However, of all the interpretations of the African dandy, none compare to the Society of Ambience Makers and Elegant People, or the Sapeurs as they are affectionately known. Originating in the Congo (Brazzaville) and the Democratic Republic of the Congo in the ’70s and ’80s, this society of peacocking dandies is distinguished for its flashy and bold taste, with brightly coloured suits and exaggerated accessories. They also set their own rules of ethical and “gentlemanly” behaviour. Propelled by Papa Wemba’s music and style, its influence exceeded both countries to the immigrant communities of Paris and Brussels. The Sapeurs distinctive and original style has gone on to inspire high fashion brands such as Paul Smith, Balmain, and Junya Watanabe.
After a sharp decline in office core dressing in the last few years – mostly due to the pandemic that forced us all into sweatpants while working from home – the past few seasons have seen a revival of the suit. Recent runways of Saint Laurent and Bottega Venetta, among others, are bringing it back in oversized and relaxed silhouettes that match the energy of the past. Not only has this trend swept across the global fashion week circuit and the streets of fashion capitals, but it’s also reached the red carpet, driven by celebrities like Rihanna and Beyoncé. African designers are also embracing the timeless appeal of the tailored suit by interpreting it in modern ways that combine craft with sustainability.
Modern masters
Since its emergence, black and African Dandyism has continued to evolve. Today, for example, a dandy may wear an outfit crafted from historically “unconventional materials”, as seen in Virgil Abloh’s autumn/winter 2021 collection for Louis Vuitton Menswear, where he draped West African Kente fabrics on Eurocentric suits.
Tailoring as a craft has a rich history on the African continent. For designer Aristide Loua of fashion brand Kente Gentlemen, tailors Celeste McTurk from Suited For Her and Theo Ngobeni who founded Mr. Slimfit, bespoke garments are about craftsmanship, luxury, and personalisation. Using natural fabrics, their designs are lessons in precision, comfort, and striking a balance between classic and modern.
Kente Gentlemen
Based in Abidjan, Kente Gentlemen was launched in 2017 by Aristide Loua. The brand offers unisex suits and vibrant sets handcrafted in African textiles such as Senoufo. For Aristide, “made-to-order culture is deeply rooted in the way clothing is traditionally produced in Ivorian communities.” The bespoke designs also align with the brand’s commitment to sustainability. “We want to avoid waste, and by producing only what is needed, we ensure that every piece has purpose,” shares Aristide.
Kente Gentleman is founded “on the idea that fashion should be personal and that designs should be as unique as the individuals who wear them.” As such, Aristide works with local artisans and tailors to produce one-of-a-kind garments.
Suited for Her
Founded by Celeste McTurk in 2018 after years of working in menswear, Suited For Her provides what she describes as the “missing puzzle” in women’s design. Celeste began sketching in her formative years and was soon crafting her own blazers with the help of her mother. Fascinated by the structure, construction, and the richness of suit fabrics, she went on to study fashion design. Her mission was to design formalwear for women that not only fits exceptionally well, but also reflects the ambition and strength that she saw in men’s attire. “Dresses felt too delicate, while the suits available for women lacked the structure, elegance, and authority I admired in men’s tailoring,” she explains. Celeste’s pieces champion a feminine elegance through flattering silhouettes and a sensuality that blends authority with uncompromising style.
Mr. Slimfit
Theo Ngobeni traces his passion for grooming and dressing up back to his childhood. He’s built a name for himself as the go-to tailor since launching his unisex brand Mr. Slimfit in 2015. Whether outfitting celebrities or business elites, Theo’s creative process involves closely collaborating with his clients and understanding who they are outside of fashion. “I fell in love with looking good,” he reveals with a smile. Driven by tradition and inspired by the sartorial heritage of British and Italian artisanship, the confessed traditionalist does not follow trends, but rather prefers to stick with sartorial conventions. His goal, Theo says, is to build a legacy brand that endures through generations, like those that inspire him on Savile Row.
