These designers not only push the boundaries of fashion but also celebrate and elevate African culture and craftsmanship on the global stage.
SOUTH AFRICA
Thebe Magugu
Thebe Magugu is renowned for his innovative approach to fashion, blending contemporary design with cultural narratives. Magugu House, his flagship space voted by Time magazine as one of the best places to visit in 2024, is not just a retail space but a cultural hub that hosts exhibitions and events. The first African designer to win the prestigious LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2019, Thebe is known for naming his collections after academic subjects, illuminating aspects of South African culture and history.
“I love this idea of Thebe Magugu becoming one of the first African legacy brands based here,” Thebe told WWD, discussing his collaboration with interior design house, Weylandts and acclaimed artist, Nelson Makamo. His work is showcased in prestigious exhibitions such as the Met’s Costume Institute, and supermodel Iman is one of the catwalk legends to wear his custom Heirloom collection.
Discover more at thebemagugu.com
SOUTH AFRICA
Sindiso Khumalo
African storytelling. Founded in 2015, Sindiso’s designs incorporate handwoven and hand-embroidered textiles from South Africa and Burkina Faso and celebrate her Zulu and Ndebele heritage. A 2020 LVMH Prize finalist, the brand is known for its feminine, empowerment-driven fashion. “Clothing can be a form of medicine. It can evoke emotions and make you feel strong, alive and empowered,” Sindiso has said about her designs.
Her work has been showcased at leading institutions like the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art, blending modern design with rich cultural narratives. The brand is available at Merchants on Long in Cape Town.
LESOTHO
Thabo Makhetha
Established in 2009 by Thabo Makhetha-Kwinana, the eponymous brand celebrates Basotho heritage through luxurious winter wear. Thabo’s designs, featuring traditional Basotho blankets, have earned her global recognition, including accolades from Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) and a feature in the BBC.
“The day I leave this Earth, I want to know I didn’t just make beautiful clothes, I want to have created the things that stand for so much more,” says the Lesotho-born, South Africa-based designer. Her innovative approach, including a recent augmented reality exhibition at the Iziko South African National Gallery, highlights the brand’s role in modern African luxury.
Discover more at thabomakhetha.com
MOZAMBIQUE
Taibo Bacar
Taibo Bacar and Tatiana Ismael are the Mozambican duo who launched fashion brand Taibo Bacar in 2008, fusing high fashion and ready-to-wear. Known for its structured silhouettes and vibrant prints, Taibo Bacar draws inspiration from African nobility and heritage.
Taibo, who began his fashion career after leaving IT, says, “I talk to my fabrics, I ask them what they want and I give them life.” The brand gained international acclaim as the first African designer to show at Milan Fashion Week in 2010 and was named Emerging Designer of the Year in 2012.
Discover more at taibobacar.com
NIGERIA
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize, a trailblazer in the world of African luxury fashion, redefines traditional Nigerian aesthetics with a modern twist. His Lagos-based label, founded in 2013, integrates vibrant Aso-Oke fabrics into contemporary suiting, earning him accolades such as the LVMH Prize finalist spot in 2019 and the Arise Fashion Week Award for Designer of the Year.
Known for his bold androgynous styles, Kenneth’s creations blend heritage with haute couture, and he was the first Black designer to collaborate with Karl Lagerveld on a collection in 2021. “We’re reviving, reinterpreting and giving new context to artisan techniques that have given meaning to West African identity,” the designer shared in The New York Times. Raised in Austria, Kenneth’s work is celebrated by global fashion houses and stocked at top retailers such as Ssense and Browns.
Discover more at kennethize.com
NIGERIA
Orange Culture
Launched by Adebayo Oke-Lawal in 2010, Orange Culture is a revolutionary force in gender-fluid fashion. With a celebrity following including Lupita Nyong’o and Dua Lipa, Orange Culture is making waves on an international scale. The brand’s distinctive approach combines Nigerian heritage with global streetwear influences, creating androgynous pieces that challenge traditional fashion norms.
Adebayo’s innovative vision earned Orange Culture a spot in the BOF 500 list for 2022 and notable collaborations, including a limited-edition collection with Davido. Orange Culture is available in Lagos, Paris, London, New York, Atlanta, Hollywood, and Kenya.
Discover more at orangeculture.com.ng
CONGO
Hanifa
Hanifa’s bold and creative designs have been worn by notable figures such as Alicia Keys, Ashley Graham, and Jennifer Hudson. Founded by Anifa Mvuemba in 2012, it’s renowned for its innovative use of colour and texture, and its “Pink Label Congo” collection gained acclaim at The Met’s Costume Institute.
Made “For women without limits”, African femininity is at the heart of the brand, and Hanifa is dedicated to empowering women. As noted on their website, “We believe that women should be empowered to break barriers, achieve excellence in every aspect of their lives, and make their own rules”.
Discover more at hanifa.co
GHANA
Christie Brown
“Christie Brown is a movement in movement,” affirms founder, Aisha Ayensu. The brand was named after Aisha’s grandmother and honours her legacy as a Ghanaian seamstress.
Committed to representing African women with pride and authenticity since its debut in 2008, Christie Brown is known for its vibrant prints and intricate patterns, while celebrating African craftsmanship and heritage. The brand has become a staple in luxury fashion, turning global attention to African artisanship.
Discover more at christiebrownonline.com
SIERRA LEONE
Sai Sankoh
Sai Sankoh’s eponymous resort wear brand brings the vibrancy of Sierra Leonean culture to life through elegant kaftans and colourful patterns. Her designs, inspired by both Old Hollywood glamour and traditional African textiles, are lauded for their comfort and style. With a diverse clientele including Gabrielle Union, vegan chef Tabitha Brown, and gospel singer Yolanda Adams, Sai Sankoh’s creations are known for their ease and elegance.
“Everyone must own a Sai Sankoh Kaftan this summer because it is comfortable, vibrant, soft, elegant, and one of the easiest things you can style,” she says. Her brand’s vibrant, versatile pieces are a testament to her commitment to celebrating African heritage.
Discover more at saisankoh.com
SENEGAL
Tongoro
When Beyoncé was putting together her record-breaking Renaissance Tour in 2023, Tongoro was one of the brands she called. Founded by Sarah Diouf in 2016, Tongoro is a beacon of African-made fashion luxury, crafted entirely in Dakar, Senegal. Known for its playful, unique designs, the brand sources local materials and collaborates with artisans to create vibrant, contemporary pieces.
With high-profile admirers such as Kelly Rowland and Naomi Campbell, Tongoro has achieved international recognition. “African fashion is not an industry yet, but an ecosystem,” Sarah attested in an interview, highlighting her commitment to sustainable fashion and local craftsmanship. Listed among Fast Company’s 50 Most Innovative Companies for 2020, Tongoro continues to make a significant impact on the global fashion scene.
Discover more at tongoro.com
BENIN
Allëdjo
Allëdjo, meaning ‘visitor’ in Yoruba, was founded by Kassim Lassissi in 2018 and merges luxury with wanderlust. The brand’s unique, unisex pieces are designed in Benin, Nigeria and Dakar, Senegal, and are inspired by global destinations. Allëdjo is celebrated for its vibrant prints and fluid silhouettes, capturing the essence of travel through every collection. Kassim shares, “I choose noble fabrics that are light, airy, and fluid. Our clothes are meant to feel comfortable while being ethically produced.” The brand made waves at African Fashion International Fashion Week and received praise from Vogue Italia and Esquire. Celebrities such as Bridgerton’s Duke of Hastings, British actor Regé-Jean Page, are among its admirers.
Discover more at tongoro.com
