In recent years, South African designers have gained significant traction on the global fashion scene, allowing them to showcase their unique aesthetics and cultural narratives on an international scale. This month, Laduma Ngxokolo’s brand, MaXhosa Africa, made headlines with his Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 collection, “My Conviction,” presented at Paris Fashion Week. This event highlights the growing visibility of African talent in major fashion capitals like Paris, New York, and London.
Meet the South African designers who have made us proud and taken their designs to the world’s most sought-after runways.
MaXhosa Africa at Paris Fashion Week
South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo has achieved a remarkable milestone as the only Africa-based designer to present individual shows at Paris Fashion Week twice in 2024. His Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 collection, titled “My Conviction,” debuted this month and exemplifies the essence of the MaXhosa brand, which masterfully reinterprets traditional Xhosa beadwork patterns and motifs for contemporary fashion. MaXhosa Africa has established itself as a highlight of Paris Fashion Week, showcasing a masterclass in cultural luxury.
The upcoming Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, named “Lo Ngu-Mbulelo,” meaning “thanksgiving,” pays tribute to the rich tradition of gratitude deeply rooted in Xhosa culture. The collection reflects the designer’s strong ties to his African heritage, celebrating the spirit of thanksgiving that connects to the broader narrative of the MaXhosa brand.
Now in its third season on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, MaXhosa Africa stands out as the only Africa-based luxury fashion house officially recognised by the French Fashion Federation, la Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM).
South African female designers join forces at New York Fashion Week
During New York Fashion Week in September 2024, five groundbreaking South African fashion designers were featured as part of Jaguar’s #GiveHerACrown campaign, which celebrates creativity, innovation, and new narratives within the industry. Launched in 2020, the #GiveHerACrown initiative aims to inspire change and shift perspectives, and its 2024 focus was centred on empowering female designers who are transforming the fashion landscape with their unique designs and compelling stories.
The selected designers – Gugu Peteni, Tsakane Mashaba, Manthe Ribane Liebmann, Thando Ntuli, and Keneilwe Mothoa – each brought their distinctive styles and messages of resilience and empowerment to the event. Their inclusion in this prestigious campaign represented a significant milestone in their careers, as they collaborated to elevate African fashion on a global scale.
Thebe Magugu at Paris Fashion Week
In 2020, Thebe Magugu made an extraordinary entrance into the fashion scene by debuting at Paris Fashion Week following his headline-making win of the LVMH Prize. At just 26 years old, he was not only the youngest designer on the 2019 shortlist but also the first African designer to receive this accolade. Last year, he returned to Paris Fashion Week to present his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, aptly titled “Exotics.” This collection delves into the life and legacy of Sarah Baartman, also known as The Hottentot Venus, using fabric to narrate her story and explore themes of identity and representation.
Gert-Johan Coetzee’s London Fashion Week debut
Celebrity fashion designer Gert-Johan Coetzee is a South African Fashion Week regular, but he finally made his international debut at London Fashion Week (LFW) last year. As the headliner for Vanity Hub Africa, an event hosted by British-Nigerian entrepreneur Ayobami Animashaun, Coetzee showcased a stunning 22-piece collection at The Grand Connaught Rooms in Covent Garden, London.
Known for his extraordinary couture creations and sought-after ready-to-wear designs, Coetzee has made a significant mark in the fashion industry. His work has attracted a prestigious roster of local clientele, including South African icons such as Bonang Matheba, Lerato Kganyango, and Thuli Madonsela. On the international stage, his remarkable pieces have been worn by Hollywood stars such as Lizzo, Chloe Bailey, Oprah Winfrey, and Kelly Rowland.
Lukhanyo Mdingi at New York and Paris Fashion Week
In 2015, Lukhanyo Mdingi, a multi-award-winning queer designer from South Africa, launched his eponymous fashion label, drawing inspiration from the strong women in his life – his mother and grandmother. Since its inception, Mdingi has made significant progress in the fashion industry. He debuted at New York Fashion Week: Men’s in 2019 with his “Perennial” collection, which reflects his philosophy of honouring the natural order and emphasises quality and intentionality in design. These achievements led to him co-winning the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2021. Following the prestigious accolade, Mdingi presented his Bodyland Autumn/Winter 22-23 collection at Paris Fashion Week in 2022, further cementing his status as an African fashion stalwart.
