Showcasing his latest haute couture collection for spring/summer 2025 in Paris, on the first day of Haute Couture Week, Imane Ayissi continues to solidify his position as an unlikely but well-deserving fashion innovator. This level of success and recognition has been a long time coming for the designer who launched his namesake fashion brand in the early 2000s. Born in Cameroon and based in Paris, Ayissi has built a reputation as an outspoken advocate for sustainability and crafts in addition to acting as a cultural ambassador blending Parisian glamour with the raw and artisanal beauty of West African textiles.
In an industry often fixated on antiquated practices, Ayissi’s vision is certainly ushering a new sartorial era through traditional materials like Obom bark cloth and Faso Dan Fani. Guided by personal experience and his relationship with femininity, Ayissi’s designs offer a unique visual symphony and a glimpse into an increasingly necessary alternate view of haute couture.
While Ayissi tends to recycle familiar styles each season, there’s always something new to look forward to in his collections. This season, he was thinking about the shape and surface of clothes. On the runway, he interpreted both concepts by harmonising and bringing them together to showcase “simple” silhouettes with bold embellishments, resulting in a series of distinctive gowns.
Reinterpreting some classics like Christian Dior’s New Look which was originally introduced in 1947 as well as intelligent draping inspired by Jeanne Lanvin, the collection opened with rhythmic thumping drums. From the multi-coloured statement jacquard wool coats with fringe details to dresses brought to life with impressive raffia applique moulded into recurring motifs, the collection offered a series of showstopping looks. An example is a silk dupion mini dress that was exquisitely executed and stood out with its all-over deep fire orange raffia detail.
Among the kimono-style jackets and oversized coats we’ve grown fond of from past collections, Ayissi also introduced a delicate-looking dress and similar top styled with a pair of pristine white suit trousers. These risqué pieces appeared to be crafted from colourful segments of embroidered petal-like fabrications stitched together. Lately, the designer has been exploring more daring designs but in the most elegant way. These garments reflect the accomplished women that he often dresses.
Having built a small but strong diasporic community, Ayissi’s clientele includes renowned musicians like Angelique Kidjo and Lauryn Hill and some of today’s noteworthy names in cinema like the film producer Virginie Besson-Silla and actress Lashana Lynch.
The significance of Ayissi’s work can also be seen in the designer’s current and first solo exhibition at SCAD Fash Museum of Fashion + Film in Atlanta, Georgia. Titled Imane Ayissi: From Africa to the World, the show presents more than 40 key looks from the couturier’s oeuvre. Opened in September 2024, the exhibition is on view until 23 February 2025, offering visitors a first-class window into his world.
