Sardinia, situated in the heart of the Mediterranean, boasts a millennia-long history dating back to the Bronze Age, marked by the emergence of the first nuraghi. These truncated cone-shaped stone structures stand as the most iconic remnants of the Nuragic civilisation, which owes its name to them. With its wind-sculpted landscapes, this harsh yet generous region has long captivated the civilisations that have followed one another on its terrain of stark contrasts: from its beaches and colourful seabeds to its breathtaking mountains with rocky cliffs. Here, amidst stunning beaches and majestic ruins, Dolce & Gabbana presented their latest creations in Alta Moda, Alta Sartoria, and Alta Gioielleria. Crafted with local artistry and folklore in mind, each presentation told a tale of love and magic.
Alta Gioielleria
Set against the picturesque backdrop of Piazzetta Luisa at Forte Village, exquisite crystal showcases safeguarded genuine masterpieces of jewellery artistry. A mesmerising path wound through pieces inspired by the rich traditions of Sardinia, giving an enchanting experience amidst wheat stalks and beguiling lights.
Filigree is an ancient jewellery-making process, carried out entirely by hand, using traditional wire drawing techniques and weaving fine gold threads. This distinctive method is characterised by an openwork structure that evokes the ephemeral delicacy of lace. The iconic jewel of this Sardinian tradition is the gold button, a double dome topped by a small cylinder that can hold a semi-precious stone or a prized gem. When these unique sartorial jewels adorn a bridal dress, they symbolise fertility and prosperity: indeed, the bell-like structure of the filigree button resembles the form of a female breast, reflecting a symbolism dating back to the worship of Tanit, the Phoenician goddess of procreation.
At this year’s jewellery showcase, gem setting emerged as a sublime expression of artistry. This ancient technique transcends mere gem attachment, transforming each stone into a masterpiece. The setting’s elegant and robust structure not only safeguards the gem but also enhances its luminosity, imparting unmatched brilliance to the jewellery piece.
Alta Moda
Nora, situated on the promontory of Capo Pula, is one of Sardinia’s most significant archaeological sites, with part of the ancient city now lying submerged beneath the sea along 70 metres of coastline. The Spanish tower of Coltellazzo, facing the islet of the same name, dominates the area with a striking scenic effect.
In the bright Mediterranean light of Nora, each creation in the fashion show paid homage to Sardinia’s deep historical roots, a land rich in symbols and profound meanings that transport observers on a journey through tradition and modernity.
Highlighted in the pieces were three-dimensional embroideries and techniques inspired by filigree, shaping bodices, jewel-encrusted breastplates, and belts.
Also, commanding attention were majestic capes meticulously handcrafted from tubular weaves of flax, wool, and jacquard silk, harking back to the ancient art of Sardinian weaving and the artisanal production of woollen artefacts.
Alta Sartoria
Every year, from 1 to 4 May, the Sardinians celebrate Saint Ephysius, born near Antioch in 250 AD and martyred in Nora, Sardinia, in 303 AD. According to legend, it was thanks to his intercession that the plague miraculously disappeared from the island in 1656.
Day three’s show, Alta Sartoria, drew inspiration from the Festival of Sant’Efisio and Sardinian folklore, both in the choice of decorative motifs and materials, as well as in craftsmanship. The floral designs, executed in petit point, crochet, or embroidered with bugle beads, crystals, jet, and cannetille, evoke the infiorata of Sant’Efisio, a tradition of strewing rose petals on the streets of Cagliari during the saint’s celebrations.
Just as Sardinian costumes are richly diverse, reflecting the various civilisations that have inhabited the island over time, this collection offers a wide array of fabrics: from moiré to lace adorned with elegant flounces, to the finest velvets embroidered with decorative gold-wound threads that pay tribute to the traditional folk bolero.
In some creations, Alta Sartoria revives pibiones, a traditional Sardinian grain weaving technique done on a handloom. This method uses a heavy and compact fabric, where the design —the actual pibiones— is created by an additional weft thread, thicker than those forming the base fabric. The word pibiones, which in Sardinian means “grape seeds”, refers to the small loops of thread (picots) that protrude from the fabric’s surface, forming the design. Historically, this textile production was reserved for prized bedspreads found only in the most prestigious trousseaus. To evoke the original elite status of this technique, the Alta Sartoria garments are embellished with crystals that highlight the decorative motifs and accentuate the uniqueness of this weaving technique.
The collection wouldn’t be complete without a tribute to the world of sheepherding and its distinctive mastruca, the large wool coat worn by the Mamuthones during the Mamoiada Carnival
