When I received the press release about Refirm, Lamelle Research Laboratories’ most advanced anti-ageing solutions, which harnesses stem cell conditioning media (SCCM), I was both fascinated and confused. It’s a minefield of information. And who better to explain it all than Dr Bradley Wagemaker, Medical Director, Lamelle Research Laboratories?
To understand the basics, a stem cell is an undifferentiated cell (a type of blank slate) which can divide rapidly, giving rise to more cells of the same type. These cells don’t have a specific role and can become almost any cell that is required by the body. In medicine, stem cells can be used to replace cells damaged by chemotherapy or disease. They can also regenerate damaged tissue. In skincare, stem cells can repair skin cells. They contain amino acids and peptides known for their potential to revive the skin (soften fine lines and wrinkles, improve the skin’s texture and tone and promote cell turnover). Plus, they’re rich in antioxidants, essential to fight the signs of ageing.
A skincare product that contains stem cells doesn’t mean that it has living human cells in it, explains Dr Bradley. “In the laboratory, we cultivate certain types of cells, and when stimulated, those cells release an array of different molecules. It is those substances that we then harvest, purify and use to apply topically to skin. So, it’s not so much the cell as the items that they can produce.”
It’s all about the signal
Stem cell use is about cell modification therapy. “The different layers of the skin communicate with each other in a variety of ways. If the outer living cell is activated, it can initiate a secondary cascade of signals. As long as the ingredient reaches those initial viable cells, the message can be amplified and passed on to where it is needed,” says Dr Bradley.
These are different from growth factors…
Growth factors and stem cells are vastly different. “A growth factor is like a sniper, delivering one signal to a group of cells. Stem cell conditioning media contains so much more – amino acids, microRNA (which regulate gene expression), and DNA fragments. It’s the most incredible soup of wonderfully useful cell signals that can bring about a variety of changes.”
Skin support therapy
Dr Bradley differentiates between age prevention – emphasis on protection and recharging cells to fight off free radicals – and age correction, which is about redressing the ‘injury’ that has accumulated over the years. You don’t need growth factors in your early 20s, says Dr Bradley. “It’s like trying to polish an already sparkling car.” We do, however, need it for age correction as our skin’s removal and recovery processes alter with age.
“The biggest worry I have when I review formulations and products is that consumers are often regretfully misled. It’s very disappointing. A consumer can’t be expected to know that a product isn’t what it’s claiming to be. My advice is to seek brands that are involved in science and have a good reputation for integrity and quality of product.”
