LED masks are trending for their skin-rejuvenating benefits, from reducing inflammation to treating pigmentation. But is an at-home device as effective as a salon treatment? We find out.
How does an LED mask work?
LED masks use light-emitting diodes to emit specific wavelengths of light, which penetrate the skin to stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation or kill acne-causing bacteria.
What do the different types of light do?
It’s important to understand the different types of light especially if you’re purchasing an LED mask for at-home use. Red light helps boost collagen production and reduces fine lines. Blue light is good for acne-prone skin as it kills bacteria. Green light helps with pigmentation and skin tone and yellow light helps reduce redness and inflammation, explains Rowan Hall-Farrise, Head of International Training at QMS MediCosmetics. As a guideline, blue light should be at 415nm; red light should be at 633nm; and near-infrared light (which helps further target signs of ageing) should be at 830nm and 1 070nm. “The new Derma Expert Red Light Treatment, which is used in QMS salons and is also available for retail (R10 000) has three wavelengths – the red and infrared,” says Rowan. (Read the review here)
What are they most effective at treating?
“I have been using medical-grade LED light therapy in my practice for years, and it has become an essential part of our treatment protocols,” says Dr Nerina Wilkinson, world-renowned plastic surgeon and owner of Dr Nerina Wilkinson + Associates, a private medical aesthetics clinic in Cape Town. “What I love about LED therapy is its ability to enhance skin health at a cellular level without any downtime. We use it to accelerate healing, reduce inflammation and boost collagen production.”
Are at-home masks as good as in-salon masks?
When used in-salon, your skin is assessed by a professional, who then customises the treatment to address specific concerns, often combining it with other professional services, like facials or chemical peels, to enhance results. While at-home LED masks can be useful for maintenance, they generally don’t compare to professional-grade LED systems in terms of power and precision. “In my practice, we use only medical-grade devices from reputable suppliers, ensuring that each session delivers a scientifically measured dose of energy at the correct wavelength and intensity,” says Dr Wilkinson. This precision is what makes professional LED therapy so effective at accelerating skin healing and stimulating collagen. Whether used post-laser to reduce redness or after microneedling to optimise healing, it transforms recovery and results. I often describe LED as the ‘silent powerhouse’ in our clinic because it amplifies every other treatment benefit while supporting long-term skin vitality and glow,” says Dr Wilkinson. “I always remind patients that while at-home devices can supplement results, they often have lower energy output and inconsistent wavelength delivery. If someone is investing in an at-home LED mask, they should research high-quality brands with proven clinical efficacy and use them consistently,” she adds.
What about handheld devices?
“Low-quality light is as effective as holding a cell phone to your face,” says Rowan, who cautions against handheld devices. “A certain amount of time is required for light on the skin, so if you are moving the device around and spend less than 10 minutes on each site, it won’t work. Also, if held too far away the wavelength may not reach the skin.”
How often should I use an LED mask?
Most manufacturers recommend using the LED mask two to three times per week and consistency is key for noticeable results. Results vary depending on the concern. For acne, improvements may be seen within weeks. For anti-ageing, it may take six to eight weeks of regular use. As at-home devices are less powerful than professional-grade salon equipment, so results take longer to appear.
Are they safe?
They are safe when used as directed. However, individuals with photosensitivity, epilepsy, or certain medical conditions should consult a doctor or dermatologist before use. A professional ensures the correct use of the device, reducing risks of side effects. Without this guidance, consumers may overuse the device or combine it with unsuitable products, leading to irritation.
