The reopening of Epicure restaurant by Burundian chef Coco Reinarhz coincides with an emerging local culinary movement that is championing Africa’s food histories, traditions, and techniques, with more chefs embracing their heritage and cultures in their dishes. This simmering revolution allows for the recognition of indigenous ingredients, confronts misconceptions, and gives African food the respect that was stripped away by colonial systems.
Returning after a COVID-19-induced pause, Epicure — now at its chic new location at One Rosebank — celebrates the diverse gastronomies of the continent’s North, East, West, South, and Central regions. It does so by refining African dishes for a fine-dining setting while remaining authentic. It is an experience of connection and curiosity, evoking memories of home and travel.
A taste of Africa: Curating Epicure’s menu
The menu promotes communal dining with small plates made to share, featuring regional favourites such as the Ugandan Rolex — the popular street food of chapati flatbread wrapped around an omelette — here deliciously served with beef curry, taco style. The Ndakala — dried small fish from the DRC, served with a tomato dipping sauce — is left unaltered, proving that sometimes elevating African food is an exercise in restraint. The integrity of the dish is enough.
Large plates include West African seafood jollof rice and Central African stout porter oxtail, served with a choice of pap, rice or fufu. In curating the sizeable menu, Chef Coco went beyond selecting regional favourites.
“It was about capturing the rhythm and soul of Africa on a plate. I wanted each course to feel like a page from a travel diary, carrying the scents, colours, and textures of places that have inspired me. My classical French training influenced the structure and precision of the dishes, but the heart of the menu comes from moments, meals shared with family, the street food I’ve enjoyed in different cities, and the incredible artisans and farmers who bring Africa’s produce to life. I wanted the menu to not only reflect geography, but also emotion, memory, and identity. It’s a collection of flavours that speak of home yet carry the refinement and elegance that make them shine in a modern, contemporary setting,” he says.
If unsure which region to explore, diners can opt for the signature “News of Africa” menu or the “Tour of Africa in 54 minutes” business lunch concept, which honours the continent’s 54 nations within an executive lunch hour.
Lessons in refinement
On innovating with African food, Chef Coco notes:
“Our cuisine has always had the depth, complexity, and sophistication to stand on the global stage. The flavours, the stories, and the techniques are rich and layered. I have learnt that African cuisine doesn’t need to be ‘discovered,’ it needs to be recognised and experienced.
Serving a global audience has shown me that perceptions can change when you present African flavours with the same reverence given to European or Asian fine dining. It’s also reaffirmed that culinary innovation doesn’t mean losing authenticity; it’s about respecting and elevating tradition so that it speaks fluently to a global audience while remaining true to its roots.”
Elegant space
The IN’AWE-designed interior is elegant, textured, and warm, opening onto a balcony with picturesque city views. It boasts a private room for up to 40 guests for intimate personal or business occasions. There’s also a cigar lounge for added luxury.
